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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Finishing and Weathering Sequence
robw_uk
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Posted: Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 07:07 AM UTC
Quick question... Matt varnish.... all mentioned so far are acrylic, what option do I have if I am using enamel paint? Would acrylic model master matt work or should I use enamel Matt varnish?
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 - 04:18 PM UTC
Hi Rob,

That's cool! Please send me a copy. I'll see if Jim can put it on the Armorama server and then people could click the link if they want a copy. Or it could be a feature. Great idea!
There goes my book deal though!
Dragon164
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Posted: Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 01:46 PM UTC
Hey Matt,

Thanks for the great thread!
I just read through it all again and took all the pertinent points and made a word document. If you like I could send it to you so you could attach to the thread if you like.

Cheers Rob.
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, June 18, 2012 - 05:08 PM UTC
Gavin,

My mix for clear flat coat is 2 parts Tamiya X-21 Flat Base to 3 parts Future. You do not need to thin it for airbrushing. Apply it in multiple light coats.
Don't airbrush clear coats in high humidity.
Nerazzurri
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Posted: Monday, June 18, 2012 - 10:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Matt

On different threads I've seen you give your mix for a matt coat using Future and Tamiya flat base as both 2 tfb:3 f, and 1 tfb:3 f.

Which is it mate?

EDIT: it's for airbrushing, not brushing, in case that's relevant.



Flaming edit facility not working properly

And might it need thinning a little for airbrushing?

If so what with - because I think Klear is water based but Tamiya acrylics are actually alcohol based??
Nerazzurri
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Posted: Monday, June 18, 2012 - 09:23 AM UTC
Matt

On different threads I've seen you give your mix for a matt coat using Future and Tamiya flat base as both 2 tfb:3 f, and 1 tfb:3 f.

Which is it mate?

EDIT: it's for airbrushing, not brushing, in case that's relevant.
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, March 26, 2012 - 11:42 AM UTC
Yes, you need to give enamels 4 days or so to "gas out" and fully cure. A week is very safe. Then you can paint acrylics over them for your track pads.
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 12:48 PM UTC
Well I applied my rust wash and things are looking pretty good, however, I believe I may have commited a mortal sin as far as painting is concerned. As I said, I am painting tracks for an Abrams so they have the rubber pads on the tracks. So I figured I would add the wash (enamel) and then paint the pads after so they looked tidy. But if I paint the pads in Acrylic I assume that will be effected by the minimal amount of enamel wash that made its way onto the pads? I read on some sites that you can paint acrylic over enamel as long as you let it sit for a week or more to cure properly. Any truth to this? Thanks in advance.
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, March 23, 2012 - 04:45 AM UTC
You're welcome Shaun, anytime, and welcome to Armorama!
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Thursday, March 22, 2012 - 05:16 PM UTC
Ah thank you for the tips. My next step is to do the rust wash so I hope that goes over well being my first attempt at it. Will have to do some extra research on it before I continue. Thanks again!
SSGToms
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 11:48 AM UTC
Yes Shaun, that is what I needed to know. If your washes are Model Master enamels, then you are good to go. You can apply them over the Tamiya acrylic paints without a problem. You can skip the Future layer on the tracks, too. It should all come out the way you're planning it to!
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Wednesday, March 21, 2012 - 05:12 AM UTC
Hey, sorry for the delay. I have Model Master Enamel in rust for the tracks and burnt umber for later body washes. I guess then with the Tamiya Acrylics serving as the base paint I should be okay to use the Model Master enamels as my wash paints?
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, March 19, 2012 - 07:50 AM UTC
Model Master makes acryl and enamel. Which do you have?
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Sunday, March 18, 2012 - 01:59 PM UTC
Sorry I completely forgot to mention, the base coat paints (metallic grey, flat black) are all tamiya paints while the rust wash would be model master paints. I knew that the future would be glossy and that I would have to use a dull coat later which was something I was worried about. I thought it would start to make my tracks thick and rigid. Thanks for the advice thus far
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, March 16, 2012 - 02:23 PM UTC
Chris,
What type of paints are you using for these stages? If the black, metallic grey/black, and rust are all enamel or all acrylic, the wash may dissolve your base coat.
The idea is to paint with acrylics and wash/weather with oils and enamels so that the paints don't react with each other. The Future clear coat prevents the wash from staining and darkening the paint of the base coat, which you really wouldn't care about with tracks. Also, Future dries highly glossy, which you don't want on tracks.
Also, if you paint the tracks with acrylic base colors, I highly recommend AK Interactive Track Wash, Track Rust Pigment, and Dark Steel Pigment. They are fantastic products and the results are amazing.
ShaunDoe
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Posted: Thursday, March 15, 2012 - 04:35 PM UTC
Posted this in the Tank Treads thread but not sure if anyone is checking that any more plus this also sort of applies to this topic... so here goes: I have only been working on models for a year now so my expertise is limited. I am working on some M1A2 treads and have laid down a base coat of flat black which I will then over spray with a mixture of metallic grey/flat black mix as was suggested in the other thread. Then I wanted to do a wash with rust (Model Master). I was wondering if I need to do a seal with future before applying a wash? Would the thinner in the wash take off my base coats? My main worry is that by adding a layer of future first I may be making the rubber (Tamiya) treads too rigid to fit to the wheels later. Never used future or a wash before hence my trepidation and lack of know how. Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 - 08:02 AM UTC
Al,
You're welcome. I would suggest Burnt Umber for the wash.
Battleship_Al
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Posted: Tuesday, February 07, 2012 - 06:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Albert,

Yes, do an overall wash, then you can airbrush lightened camo colors to brighten the appearance and fade the paint. It should look much more tied together and less stark then. You can also drybrush the zimmeritt with lightened camo colors to make the raised edges pop, giving the zimmeritt visual interest and depth.


Matt,

Thanks for your help. I was very unhappy with the way the Tiger was looking so I ended up stripping the paint and will start new with lighter colors. This time I will do some pre-shading too. I have never done that before. I will also lighten and thin the camo colors so they are a little more translucent and faded looking from the start.

Can you recommend a wash color to use with a dark yellow base and a green and brown camo? I think a nice medium brown artist oil wash would bring out detail and the zimermmit pattern without making it too dark.

Again, thanks for your kind help.
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Posted: Sunday, February 05, 2012 - 08:34 PM UTC
Giuseppe,

When I made this list I included all the weathering treatments currently being used so that no one would wonder when they should be done. It certainly does not mean you have to do all of them, you may omit as many as you like. You are encouraged to do what works for you and develop your own style. If you have a faster easier process, by all means use it.
SSGToms
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Posted: Sunday, February 05, 2012 - 08:28 PM UTC
Albert,

Yes, do an overall wash, then you can airbrush lightened camo colors to brighten the appearance and fade the paint. It should look much more tied together and less stark then. You can also drybrush the zimmeritt with lightened camo colors to make the raised edges pop, giving the zimmeritt visual interest and depth.
ironwork
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Posted: Friday, February 03, 2012 - 04:18 AM UTC
Hi to everyone, relly nice topic


Quoted Text

1) Acrylic camo paint
2) Acrylic clear gloss
3) Decals or dry transfers
4) Acrylic clear gloss
5) Overall oil washes
6) Acrylic clear flat
7) Oil panel washes (filters)
8) Oil pin washes
9) Oil drybrushing
10) Oil staining (dot method)
11) Chipping and scuffing
12) Pigments
13) Mount to base so nobody touches the pigments




... and should you have a water-weathering process, able to reduce number of passages ?
Working directly on flat paints ?

Paint flat with any paint you like
Decals or dry transfers with Crystal Lock Method
Acrylic clear flat just over decals
Filters
Chipping and scuffing
Dirt with Structured Powders and/or Dust Filters
Oil, grease, sooth, staining

Beppe
Battleship_Al
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Posted: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 - 06:33 AM UTC
This has been a great thread. OK, I have a question.

I am building a Tiger I with zimerit. I have painted the camo and did my Future then decals then second coat of Future. I would like to fade the camo a bit because it's pretty dark and needs to be blended. Should I do an overall wash first and then dust it with a lighter camo color followed by the pin wash? Is there any special technique for dealing with the zimerit?

Thanks in advance for any help.
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 06:16 PM UTC
You can apply dusty layers by misting the model with your airbrush, using Tamiya buff and deck tan.
nexusys
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Posted: Monday, January 02, 2012 - 11:12 PM UTC
(deep Breath... Siggghhhhh)

Thanks Tom, your feedback at least clear up my mind thinking about this... Appreciate it..... is there any other way instead of usign the Weathering Powder?
SSGToms
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Posted: Sunday, January 01, 2012 - 09:34 PM UTC
Hi Min,
Welcome to Armorama! Yes, if you use pigments, pastels, or any kind of weathering powder, you have to leave it exposed to retain the dusty look. The best thing to do is mount the model on a base so you don't get fingerprints on it.
If you apply a clear carrier to a pigment - you get paint. And you lose the effect.