really great job Jerry.
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Desert Storm TOW missile launcher
Graywolf
Senior Editor
Joined: December 01, 2001
KitMaker: 6,405 posts
Armorama: 1,850 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 08, 2015 - 03:34 PM UTC
Very nice progress. Who needs resin figures or TOW detailing set. really great job Jerry.
really great job Jerry.
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Monday, March 09, 2015 - 06:28 PM UTC
Gino,Jim,Mike,
Thanks so much for the kind remarks and taking the time to post. I must say I am really slowing down as it seems like I spent a really long time on this so far and this is all I have to show for it!!
Ah well...getting old sux!
J
Thanks so much for the kind remarks and taking the time to post. I must say I am really slowing down as it seems like I spent a really long time on this so far and this is all I have to show for it!!
Ah well...getting old sux!
J
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Monday, March 09, 2015 - 06:33 PM UTC
Nick and Engin,
Thanks as always fellas for looking in and commenting. Nick,it seems like a lot of guys have gone to the resin figure Gods to make their dios with. That is a good thing and specially if you like to paint and get things done in a reasonable amount of time. The resin figs are usually a lot easier to paint and to finish up as they require almost no prep work.
Since I am so cheap and want to use these antique figgies I must pay the price in other ways,IE.....TIME!!
Nick,usually the resin figs don't need much in the way of undercutting because they usually already have that built in. But....there is never any figure anywhere by anybody that cannot be improved on a bit!! My view anyway.
Sorry,too much coffee this AM.
J
Thanks as always fellas for looking in and commenting. Nick,it seems like a lot of guys have gone to the resin figure Gods to make their dios with. That is a good thing and specially if you like to paint and get things done in a reasonable amount of time. The resin figs are usually a lot easier to paint and to finish up as they require almost no prep work.
Since I am so cheap and want to use these antique figgies I must pay the price in other ways,IE.....TIME!!
Nick,usually the resin figs don't need much in the way of undercutting because they usually already have that built in. But....there is never any figure anywhere by anybody that cannot be improved on a bit!! My view anyway.
Sorry,too much coffee this AM.
J
ReconTL3-1
Joined: June 07, 2006
KitMaker: 726 posts
Armorama: 687 posts
Posted: Monday, March 09, 2015 - 08:39 PM UTC
Hey Jerry,
I am one of those who have gone over to the Resin side because of them being easier to work with as well as usually being easier to paint because of the crisper details. I agree with you that it doesn't matter what manufacturer the figure is from, whether resin or plastic, there is always room for improvement, or at least personalization. For me it is more of the latter. However, there are some plastic figures that I have used that have been very good in terms of pose and most details, but they did require the undercutting which took time and depending on the plastic the manufacturer used, whether soft of firm, the undercutting sometimes didn't turn out very well for me. My hat is off to you for working magic on some of those older plastic figures.
Cheers,
James
I am one of those who have gone over to the Resin side because of them being easier to work with as well as usually being easier to paint because of the crisper details. I agree with you that it doesn't matter what manufacturer the figure is from, whether resin or plastic, there is always room for improvement, or at least personalization. For me it is more of the latter. However, there are some plastic figures that I have used that have been very good in terms of pose and most details, but they did require the undercutting which took time and depending on the plastic the manufacturer used, whether soft of firm, the undercutting sometimes didn't turn out very well for me. My hat is off to you for working magic on some of those older plastic figures.
Cheers,
James
Stickframe
#362
Joined: December 01, 2013
KitMaker: 1,661 posts
Armorama: 1,202 posts
Posted: Monday, March 09, 2015 - 09:22 PM UTC
Coffee, yes, I too enjoy the "bean"!!! Not great tho if i'm trying to paint figs!!!
You're point about the resin figs seems right - they are usually pretty crisp. That said, they seem to be getting pretty expensive! Like, really expensive! Ive got a couple sets of plastic MB (I think they're plastic?) and one of some trumpeter figs - while not as crisp - they're a lot less expensive!
So, I'm going to try the undercut too!! Have you had luck using plastic figs and resin heads? I like the resin figs because the heads usually have sharp details - which are not as hard to paint - the "angles/shapes" are clear enough that you can almost paint by numbers with them - nose, brow, socket, top, middle, bottom cheek etc -
Have a good one - cheers
Nick
You're point about the resin figs seems right - they are usually pretty crisp. That said, they seem to be getting pretty expensive! Like, really expensive! Ive got a couple sets of plastic MB (I think they're plastic?) and one of some trumpeter figs - while not as crisp - they're a lot less expensive!
So, I'm going to try the undercut too!! Have you had luck using plastic figs and resin heads? I like the resin figs because the heads usually have sharp details - which are not as hard to paint - the "angles/shapes" are clear enough that you can almost paint by numbers with them - nose, brow, socket, top, middle, bottom cheek etc -
Have a good one - cheers
Nick
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Monday, March 09, 2015 - 10:50 PM UTC
Jim and Nick,
Thanks for bearing with me over the copious amounts of coffee. Old Army habit I'm afraid.
Nick,the course I usually follow is with the plastic figs and then resin heads. A good example is this. The body is from the Dragon kit and the head is Hornet.
This is my usual practice of posting in progress pics of the little dudes so I can see better on the 'puter screen what still needs work and the rest.....if it ain't broke,don't fix it.
First up,the gunner. I purposely put his helmet tilted back a bit because a tow gunner has to do that to fit into the sight.
I cast some resin parts I liked the best from my recent para build. They are former Tamiya bits as the ones in the dragon kit were way too big and soft on detail. I still want to work on his gloves a bit. Needs filling out. Otherwise,what say ye?
Remember he is wearing a flak vest so may seem kind of"chunky" or....maybe he just looks like me!! LOL
J
Thanks for bearing with me over the copious amounts of coffee. Old Army habit I'm afraid.
Nick,the course I usually follow is with the plastic figs and then resin heads. A good example is this. The body is from the Dragon kit and the head is Hornet.
This is my usual practice of posting in progress pics of the little dudes so I can see better on the 'puter screen what still needs work and the rest.....if it ain't broke,don't fix it.
First up,the gunner. I purposely put his helmet tilted back a bit because a tow gunner has to do that to fit into the sight.
I cast some resin parts I liked the best from my recent para build. They are former Tamiya bits as the ones in the dragon kit were way too big and soft on detail. I still want to work on his gloves a bit. Needs filling out. Otherwise,what say ye?
Remember he is wearing a flak vest so may seem kind of"chunky" or....maybe he just looks like me!! LOL
J
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:22 PM UTC
Number two guy up after putty and LCE added. Needs some work but this gets me to where I can see the flaws better. He will have an M16. The gunners' personal weapon was a Beretta M9
And yes,I did make the pro mask stick out like that was they did that in this position. They are not that heavy.
J
And yes,I did make the pro mask stick out like that was they did that in this position. They are not that heavy.
J
Paulinsibculo
Joined: July 01, 2010
KitMaker: 1,322 posts
Armorama: 1,239 posts
Posted: Tuesday, March 10, 2015 - 09:32 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi
you can all so find that fiberglass abrasive cleaning pencil on Ebay
A well equiped store for artist paints and pencils normally have them, since they are used by artists rather often.
disorderly
Joined: June 07, 2014
KitMaker: 125 posts
Armorama: 114 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 - 12:58 AM UTC
They look great, Jerry.
I love the little tips, like the angled helmet and the M9 sidearm.
I love the little tips, like the angled helmet and the M9 sidearm.
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 - 01:34 AM UTC
Thanks Paul,
I am going out today as a matter of fact,to look for one of those pens. They look quite useful!
Pat,
Happy you liked the little tidbits.
You may then like this one as well. I scratchbuilt the battery box that contains two lithium batteries to power the night sight Its' carrying strap and attachment cable will be adjusted once I get the thing set on the groundwork.
I noticed that I forgot the locking latch though!!
J
I am going out today as a matter of fact,to look for one of those pens. They look quite useful!
Pat,
Happy you liked the little tidbits.
You may then like this one as well. I scratchbuilt the battery box that contains two lithium batteries to power the night sight Its' carrying strap and attachment cable will be adjusted once I get the thing set on the groundwork.
I noticed that I forgot the locking latch though!!
J
justsendit
Joined: February 24, 2014
KitMaker: 3,033 posts
Armorama: 2,492 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 - 03:57 AM UTC
Hi Jerry, I really enjoy these WIP photos; they really illustrate the amount of extra detail effort which you apply to your work.
Great job as always!
—mike
Great job as always!
—mike
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 11, 2015 - 11:56 PM UTC
Thanks as always Mike for looking in and taking the time to comment.
Here is the last member of the crew. He is all basically together and just needs a spot of putty here and there. Although his pose was the closest to the kit poses he was the hardest one to get to "look right" out of the bunch for some reason. Guys using binos are pretty hard to line up. This one is still not spot on but that is because of the clay temporarily holding his right arm on(I hope).
Getting closer to paint time. Yippeee! Not.
I should add that the arm isn't glued on yet as it makes painting the face a bunch easier without those binos in the way.
J
Here is the last member of the crew. He is all basically together and just needs a spot of putty here and there. Although his pose was the closest to the kit poses he was the hardest one to get to "look right" out of the bunch for some reason. Guys using binos are pretty hard to line up. This one is still not spot on but that is because of the clay temporarily holding his right arm on(I hope).
Getting closer to paint time. Yippeee! Not.
I should add that the arm isn't glued on yet as it makes painting the face a bunch easier without those binos in the way.
J
disorderly
Joined: June 07, 2014
KitMaker: 125 posts
Armorama: 114 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 02:00 AM UTC
The hollowed out sleeves make such a difference, Jerry.
The Lithium battery holder was also a great addition.
Learning so much here.
The Lithium battery holder was also a great addition.
Learning so much here.
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 02:49 AM UTC
Thanks Pat!!!
It goes to show that if you spend enough time(cheap for me) then you can even get these old old figs to come a little bit out of the dark ages.
Thanks for the kind word,
J
It goes to show that if you spend enough time(cheap for me) then you can even get these old old figs to come a little bit out of the dark ages.
Thanks for the kind word,
J
railbuilderdhd
Joined: February 23, 2009
KitMaker: 113 posts
Armorama: 91 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 03:24 AM UTC
Jerry,
well done! I really like your custom bashing work you have done or is it the extra details you add and work into the original parts like the scribe lines for the seams of the clothes.
I wanted to know if you plan to carve out the binoculars a little so there is a edge on the front to look like the glass is recessed.
Keep posting the great work. I really enjoy it.
Dave
well done! I really like your custom bashing work you have done or is it the extra details you add and work into the original parts like the scribe lines for the seams of the clothes.
I wanted to know if you plan to carve out the binoculars a little so there is a edge on the front to look like the glass is recessed.
Keep posting the great work. I really enjoy it.
Dave
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 06:00 AM UTC
Thanks Dave,
Nice of you to say and thanks for noticing the details.Yes,I was planning on doing something about those binos. Might even try to replace them.
Here is an update with the primer shot onto it. Looks a lot better. Still have some work to do though.
The first time I built these figs years and years ago they just didn't look right to me and now I think it was because I didn't enhance the diliniation between the flak vest and shirt. There for the older figs just looked kind of chunky!!
anyway...
J
Nice of you to say and thanks for noticing the details.Yes,I was planning on doing something about those binos. Might even try to replace them.
Here is an update with the primer shot onto it. Looks a lot better. Still have some work to do though.
The first time I built these figs years and years ago they just didn't look right to me and now I think it was because I didn't enhance the diliniation between the flak vest and shirt. There for the older figs just looked kind of chunky!!
anyway...
J
Stickframe
#362
Joined: December 01, 2013
KitMaker: 1,661 posts
Armorama: 1,202 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 07:13 AM UTC
Hi Jerry - as usual, you pass the primer test! Not an unwanted seam or gap to be seen! How do you always do it?!?? I like your tip on the guy's removable arm for painting - and the added chin strap - nice! Your fabbed up battery and control looks great. You're really burning through this one - wow!
Cheers
Nick
Cheers
Nick
Karl187
#284
Joined: October 04, 2006
KitMaker: 3,094 posts
Armorama: 2,942 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 04:46 PM UTC
I wonder how you always get the primer stage spot-on Jerry, as Nick mentioned. You have so many additions and changes to the figures yet you pretty much get them to look perfect under the very first coat of primer. I've never been able to do that- I always find a bit that needs to be re-textured or sanded so it blends in!
I must say looking at the scene all together under primer one can really begin to appreciate the work that has gone into making everything sit right, making it look right and adding in the correct details- it becomes so much more realistic with all the additions coming together.
Just out of curiosity- how long does it take to set up the TOW for firing and then how long would it take to re-load it after firing off a round?
I must say looking at the scene all together under primer one can really begin to appreciate the work that has gone into making everything sit right, making it look right and adding in the correct details- it becomes so much more realistic with all the additions coming together.
Just out of curiosity- how long does it take to set up the TOW for firing and then how long would it take to re-load it after firing off a round?
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 06:33 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi Jerry - as usual, you pass the primer test! Not an unwanted seam or gap to be seen! How do you always do it?!?? I like your tip on the guy's removable arm for painting - and the added chin strap - nice! Your fabbed up battery and control looks great. You're really burning through this one - wow!
Cheers
Nick
Thanks Nick,
Nice of you to say but there are still minor problems I see that need to be addressed. I don't think I have ever shot primer on for the first time and found no mistakes!! But thanks for the vote of confidence anyway!
I owe all of this focus on prep detail work to my awesome modeling buddy Mike Roof. He showed me down that road years ago.
J
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 12, 2015 - 06:42 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I wonder how you always get the primer stage spot-on Jerry, as Nick mentioned. You have so many additions and changes to the figures yet you pretty much get them to look perfect under the very first coat of primer. I've never been able to do that- I always find a bit that needs to be re-textured or sanded so it blends in!
I must say looking at the scene all together under primer one can really begin to appreciate the work that has gone into making everything sit right, making it look right and adding in the correct details- it becomes so much more realistic with all the additions coming together.
Just out of curiosity- how long does it take to set up the TOW for firing and then how long would it take to re-load it after firing off a round?
Thanks Karl,
Nice of you to say! As I told Nick above there are still mistakes though. I know I am harder on myself than almost everyone else is but hey....it makes me work harder.
The Tow can be put into operation in about one minute by a good crew. It breaks down into 7 main components for dismounted ops. Tripod,cradle mount,launch tube,daysight,nightsite,missile guidance set and nightsight battery box. The whole set up is pretty foolproof and the only thing that really needs delicacy is attaching the cable from the mount to the MGS. This connector has about 30 or 40 pins inside that if bent,render the whole sheebang useless.You then have to do a self check using the system in the MGS and this includeds boresighting the sights. There are two dials on the side and bottom of the daysight that have to be moved to line up the meters in the MGS. It sounds complicated but an average person can learn all this in a few hours at the most.
To reload takes easily under 30 seconds but a smart thing to do if you have time between targets is to re-test the system using the self check in the MGS
Karl187
#284
Joined: October 04, 2006
KitMaker: 3,094 posts
Armorama: 2,942 posts
Posted: Friday, March 13, 2015 - 04:38 PM UTC
Thanks for answering my question Jerry !
!
chukw1
Joined: November 28, 2007
KitMaker: 817 posts
Armorama: 75 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 14, 2015 - 03:46 AM UTC
Way cool, Jerry! "Ask the man who's fired one!" Hay, check your messages- I gots a question for you- cheers!
chuk
chuk
white4doc
#429
Joined: October 14, 2003
KitMaker: 1,086 posts
Armorama: 964 posts
Posted: Saturday, March 14, 2015 - 07:24 PM UTC
Looks great, Jerry. As always your eye for the "little" details takes what would be an excellent build and pushes the standard that much further.
SdAufKla
Joined: May 07, 2010
KitMaker: 2,238 posts
Armorama: 2,158 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2015 - 04:24 AM UTC
Jerry, Jerry, Jerry...
What, no parachutist retention straps tucked up under the elastic camouflage retaining bands on the rear of the helmets? Why, these guys might as well be a bunch of... Nope, I won't say it!
I'm coming in late to the thread, but you're doing your usual excellent work my friend!
Nice subject, too. It's good to see something other than the same-o'-same-o'.
What, no parachutist retention straps tucked up under the elastic camouflage retaining bands on the rear of the helmets? Why, these guys might as well be a bunch of... Nope, I won't say it!
I'm coming in late to the thread, but you're doing your usual excellent work my friend!
Nice subject, too. It's good to see something other than the same-o'-same-o'.
jrutman
Joined: April 10, 2011
KitMaker: 7,941 posts
Armorama: 7,934 posts
Posted: Sunday, March 15, 2015 - 07:53 PM UTC
@Karl-no probs--any time bubba
@Chuck-hope I squared you away bro
@John-thanks brother for checking in and for the nice remarks
@Mike-Darn it!!! I knew things were progressing too fast. Now I realize I went the easy way and made these guys into legs. I will have to square that away right quick.---Off I go to accomplish that while singin',"And when I go go downtown,
don't you kick my dog around",
J
@Chuck-hope I squared you away bro
@John-thanks brother for checking in and for the nice remarks
@Mike-Darn it!!! I knew things were progressing too fast. Now I realize I went the easy way and made these guys into legs. I will have to square that away right quick.---Off I go to accomplish that while singin',"And when I go go downtown,
don't you kick my dog around",
J
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