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God Hand Sprue Cutters
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 03:40 AM UTC
You could take them apart but then you'll need to figure out a way to put them back together since they are "riveted" ....
Sharpening the cutting edge also requires re-aligning them since removed material means a change in angle between the handles when fully closed. The final adjustments of the cutting edges needs to be done with the cutter re-assembled so there is nothing to gain by taking them apart.
A cutting disc in a Dremel can be used to sharpen and realign,
it can be done but why bother when the Plato variant costs less than $2 .....
/ Robin
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 04:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

For the past 2 decades I have always used Xuron Sprue cutters. One day I decided to order some Tamiya sharp pointed ones which I always thought were ridiculously priced (28$). Best cutters I have ever used and worth the 28$. Thing is that they got dull real fast...like really fast. I am so disappointed with them which leads me to my question...Has anyone ever tried God Hand cutters which from what I read are the best except they cost about 50. I would be willing to pay that if they stay sharp and consistant. Any thoughts on them? Or any recommendations on sprue cutters that perform like the Tamiya ones but won't go dull after one model although my dull tamiyas are still however much better than any of the Xuron cutters.




Hi Mike - why don't you try sharpening your Tamiya cutters ? The upside of soft steel that dulls quickly is that it sharpens easily. Different grades of silicone carbide paper stuck to a thin steel scale with double sided tape works fine . Wet it with light oil - WD 40 or such . If they are flush cutters- ( bevel on one side only - flat on bottom ) do the bevels first stroking towards the flat side in straight passes with no rocking . You will feel a burr develop along the edge - finish off by stroking the bottom ( flat side ) on fine paper on a glass plate then a piece of leather with Blue Magic metal polish or the like rubbed in . Worth a try if you are only going to toss them anyway. Anyone with the skills to build models can learn to put an edge on their tools - hope this helps .
Richard
rdt1953
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 04:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

You could take them apart but then you'll need to figure out a way to put them back together since they are "riveted" ....
Sharpening the cutting edge also requires re-aligning them since removed material means a change in angle between the handles when fully closed. The final adjustments of the cutting edges needs to be done with the cutter re-assembled so there is nothing to gain by taking them apart.
A cutting disc in a Dremel can be used to sharpen and realign,
it can be done but why bother when the Plato variant costs less than $2 .....
/ Robin



The mating of the two cutting edges can be tuned up very simply by folding apiece of fine paper so that both sides have the abrasive facing outwards and drawing it between the cutters while holding them closed with very light pressure . You may have to work backand forth between sharpening and mating until satisfied.
As to why bother - regardless of how little replacement may cost sharpening tools is an extremely valuable skill set for any craftsman to have .
Richard
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 04:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

You could take them apart but then you'll need to figure out a way to put them back together since they are "riveted" ....
Sharpening the cutting edge also requires re-aligning them since removed material means a change in angle between the handles when fully closed. The final adjustments of the cutting edges needs to be done with the cutter re-assembled so there is nothing to gain by taking them apart.
A cutting disc in a Dremel can be used to sharpen and realign,
it can be done but why bother when the Plato variant costs less than $2 .....
/ Robin



The mating of the two cutting edges can be tuned up very simply by folding apiece of fine paper so that both sides have the abrasive facing outwards and drawing it between the cutters while holding them closed with very light pressure . You may have to work backand forth between sharpening and mating until satisfied.
As to why bother - regardless of how little replacement may cost sharpening tools is an extremely valuable skill set for any craftsman to have .
Richard



Oh yes, I have done it once or twice
I bought a fairly cheap cutter but the angle and most importantly the thickness of the blade wasn't good for cutting sprues. A further problem was that the edges didn't meet correctly (I said they were cheap). It took some time but the end result was good, still use them 20 years later.
The time I spent on them has been paid back many times over by the time, scalpel blades and sliced fingers I have saved over the years when cutting sprues. Now it needs reworking since I used it on wire that was too hard ....
/ Robin
PRH001
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 11:03 AM UTC
In response to the original question, I had a friend recommend the GH cutters for very delicate work, and I broke down and tried them. They are far better at trimming parts than any other nippers I’ve used. The jaws are very hard and therefore brittle. They are not intended for use on anything but styrene. Even cutting resin will eventually dull them.

I can say that using these cutters to clean up parts cut my cleanup time by 50-60 percent. With limited building time, that made them worth the investment to me.

Obviously, for some, they won’t be a good option for cleanup due to the methods they prefer or due to perceived value. For those who use nippers for very fine work and don’t mind spending the cost of a kit on tools, they work well.

Paul H


Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 11:14 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Has anyone seen the new cutters on Meng's website? thin blades to make parallel cuts and eliminate nubs



They appear to be reboxed DSPIAE ST-A cutters. And there is only one blade that cuts against a flat surface where the other blade should be. And having watched several videos about them they don't eliminate all of the nub but it does a good job getting rid of most of it.
Wierdy
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 03:41 PM UTC
Strangely enough, nobody has mentioned Pro'sKit. They are Taiwanese manufacturer of decent quality tools. I use these with older type handle:
https://www.gme.sk/precizni-stipaci-kleste-115mm-proskit-pm-723
Now they look like this:
https://www.amazon.com/ProsKit-PM-723-Cutter-Diagonal-Flush/dp/B0046R0NDM
Absolutely satisfiying results can be achieved with these ones:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Plastic-Covered-Nonslip-Handgrip-Miniature-Diagonal-Cutting-Pliers/361388450589?epid=1239252599&hash=item54246e231d:g:PcUAAOSw9gRaTObF
They are called MTC-5, are made in Japan and provide results on par with finest Tamiya versions.
Both Pro'sKit and MTC-5 provide flush, reasonably clean and smooth cut IMHO.
Buckeyes57
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 06:46 PM UTC
I am surprised that nobody has brought up this cutter. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=3749 I use this to remove small, delicate parts of the sprue.
I have really enjoyed them. They are not that expensive and mine have held their edge for a long time. With a nice clean cut.
There are times I use mine like tweezers to hold the small part when getting rid of the seam line with my hobby knife. The sharp edge helps keep the part from shooting across the room like my other tweezers. Just don't squeeze too hard or you will cut the part in half.
I do have a question, what cutters would you recommend for cutting hardened steel wires for metal tracks? I have some cheap ones I bought and now they are all chewed up from cutting track pins.
retiredyank
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 06:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text


I do have a question, what cutters would you recommend for cutting hardened steel wires for metal tracks? I have some cheap ones I bought and now they are all chewed up from cutting track pins.



I have a pair I bought from Harbor Freight(~$8). They work great on track pins. It doesn't chew them up.
despot
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 08:24 PM UTC
I have zillion of cutters and wondering how on earth a cutter can be worth $40? Then one day I decided to take the gamble and ordered GH Ultimate Nipper from HLJ.

Well of course everything is worth the money you'd want to pay. I can't decide for anybody else (and still I think it is really expensive for a bloody nipper) but if I break or lose my Ultimate Nipper, I'll order another one, the next day. I use Tamiya and Xuron for rough works. But GH cuts like butter, with very little left for blade to clean.
BravoTwoZero
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Posted: Thursday, January 18, 2018 - 08:45 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I am surprised that nobody has brought up this cutter. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=3749 I use this to remove small, delicate parts of the sprue.
I have really enjoyed them. They are not that expensive and mine have held their edge for a long time. With a nice clean cut.
There are times I use mine like tweezers to hold the small part when getting rid of the seam line with my hobby knife. The sharp edge helps keep the part from shooting across the room like my other tweezers. Just don't squeeze too hard or you will cut the part in half.
I do have a question, what cutters would you recommend for cutting hardened steel wires for metal tracks? I have some cheap ones I bought and now they are all chewed up from cutting track pins.



Actually, I did mention the UMM cutter in my reply earlier. I just didn't post a link. But, like you, I have enjoyed using this tool. And like you said, they are not that expensive.
barrowb98
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Posted: Friday, January 19, 2018 - 02:27 AM UTC
I have a pair of Single-Edge GodHands. They're awesome but complete and total overkill for most normal modelling situations. You can't snip the parts off the tree with them, they're too delicate, so you have to snip it off with a different cutter, then use the GodHands to clean up. I only break them out when I'm building Gundam models that are going to be left in the bare plastic colors. The GodHands prevent the white stress marks from occurring at the sprue gates and they cut so close you don't have to sand and dull the plastic. They're extremely sharp, and only one edge is sharp the other side is a flat anvil. They're so sharp they leave a shiny cut. They're basically like a #11 on a hinge but I can make more precise cuts with them. There are cheaper single-edge cutters (I also have Gundam Planet's which are likely the same as the DSPIAE/Meng ones) but the same caveats apply, don't use them to make the main cuts, only for clean up. Used in the right way and in the right situation they're amazing tools but are probably a bit much for typical military scale modeling jobs but they can help cut down cleanup time.
ninjrk
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Posted: Sunday, February 25, 2018 - 04:14 AM UTC
I just got the new Meng version of these last night and they have already become an essential tool. I'm working on Fine Molds Chi Ri kit and every individual track link has two sprue attachment points. Cleanup is almost non-existent due to being able to cut right up against the link with no fear of damage. A few swipes with the sanding stick and the track is done. I really thought these were a waste of money, they are really really not to save time on clean up. The only down side I have seen is they cut plastic like butter, so for attachment points on round roadwheels or the like where my Xuron cutter would get pushed along the surface, these will just cut through thee plastic of the tire itself.
PRH001
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 12:55 AM UTC
I noticed that someone in this thread was discussing the New Meng DSPIAE cutters. I wouldn’t assume that my experience will be the same as all others, but I’ve got both the God Hand SPN-120 and Meng’s new DSPIAE single-sided cutters. The SPN-120s are finished better and provide a cleaner cut.

The edge of the flat side in the SPN-120 cutters is aligned with the blade to ensure a flush cut. The flat side of the Meng cutter does not align as well which means there is more cleanup needed. Think in terms of high quality tweezers versus less expensive types. Both cutters cause far less stress in the plastic than standard cutters, but in my samples, the God Hand cutter leaves a noticeably better result.

If you get a set of Meng cutters that have perfect alignment, the performance would be the same as the God Hand cutters.

Hope this helps someone in the market for precision plastic cutters.

Cheers
Paul H
j76lr
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 03:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

50 Bucks ?!
They cut diamond or something ?

I paid 5 bucks for the pair I'm using now for 3 years .
Cut brass wire along with plastic and still nice and sharp .
No brand name . Bought em at local art supply .

For 50 bucks they should come with cup holders at least . Maybe MP3 player and comfy chair too



( I just bought a pair of these to keep with my electronics gear - - buy a pair with the free shipping ,,, buy 3 for 15 bucks you'll be way ahead : https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Stand-off-Construction-21-Degree/dp/B076M3ZHBV/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1516229581&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=wire+cutter )




LOL !!! I have the same pair I got at a model show ! bought @ one for rough cutting , their great !! Its ridiculous to spend $50 OR $28 on cutters use that money on a kit !!
Vicious
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 05:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text


LOL !!! I have the same pair I got at a model show ! bought @ one for rough cutting , their great !! Its ridiculous to spend $50 OR $28 on cutters use that money on a kit !!



I think it's just a personal choice, I do not have much time to model, 2 small children, a wife who is worth 2 (holy woman !!), new house etc ... any tool that facilitates my modeling life is welcome, even at 50 bucks and from the reviews the difference is substantial, I have 5 kits and 7 figurines in 54mm in my stash that for me are already too many, so I find it smarter to buy the "God hand" that buy another kit and get him to take dust in my storage

KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 05:49 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I can say that using these cutters to clean up parts cut my cleanup time by 50-60 percent. With limited building time, that made them worth the investment to me.



In order to normalize your experience to mine, do you typically clean all along the mold part line, square up corners, and sand faying surfaces?

KL
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 06:05 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I am surprised that nobody has brought up this cutter. http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=3749 I use this to remove small, delicate parts of the sprue.
I have really enjoyed them. They are not that expensive and mine have held their edge for a long time. With a nice clean cut.
There are times I use mine like tweezers to hold the small part when getting rid of the seam line with my hobby knife. The sharp edge helps keep the part from shooting across the room like my other tweezers. Just don't squeeze too hard or you will cut the part in half.
I do have a question, what cutters would you recommend for cutting hardened steel wires for metal tracks? I have some cheap ones I bought and now they are all chewed up from cutting track pins.



I've been using the identical type tool for years now. Bought mine from MICRO MARK. Have held their edge nicely but I only use them on styrene, no metal or PE.
PRH001
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 06:57 AM UTC
In order to normalize your experience to mine, do you typically clean all along the mold part line, square up corners, and sand faying surfaces?

KL[/quote]

Kurt,
Yes I do clean up mold lines, square surfaces and sand faying surfaces. I cut my teeth in IPMS aircraft modeling competitions so good basic construction and alignment are not negotiable.

The God Hand cutters cut time by allowing removal of parts closer to the surface without pullout of plastic and providing square cuts. I find most seams still need work to get to the point I’m happy with them, so they don’t eliminate that care, but when items like tracks and small parts require true cuts, these are the best way I’ve found to accomplish it.

Hopefully this will help you quantify the opinion provided.

Cheers,
Paul H
Vicious
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 07:15 AM UTC
I received my "God Hand" a few days ago and I did a couple of tests and another important factor at least for me is that not stressing the plastic and cutting through, the smaller pieces do not fly anymore to the unknown deep in space and then be swallowed by the Carpet Monster...unbelievable...is not a small detail, avoiding hours on your knees or worse having to deal with another monster "The Customer Service"....
Silantra
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Posted: Friday, March 02, 2018 - 05:47 PM UTC
God Hand - very catchy name for a cutter. They are mainly popular to the gundam modeler because they dont leave stress mark .. since gundam modeler dont realy color their gundams (except for some)...
i had experienced testing (borrowed from a friend).. they work amazingly ... tiny parts are easily cut without breaking them. I can cut very close to the gate of those tiny parts i.e grab handle etc...
the only drawback is the expensive price... i can get 2-3 kits with the price... and i dont know how long it can last... some of my gundam friends own god hand for the last 3 years and they said it's still sharp... (the one that i borrowed is brand new)

while i had a xuron cutter which already dull ..cant last longer..
and another good brand that works like God Hand is the tamiya side cutter... i had them for years and still sharp

a friend of mine did comparison review for some of the popular cutter
http://www.beckycustomizer.com/blog/2016/03/02/nippers-for-plastic-models/


Zaidi
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 03:02 PM UTC
Summary of this thread:
*Those who own one say it's fantastic, worth the cost and do not regret to have purchased it

*Those who have never tried it say they do not need it and are happy with their current choice.

Get your own conclusions...
SEDimmick
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2018 - 05:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Summary of this thread:
*Those who own one say it's fantastic, worth the cost and do not regret to have purchased it

*Those who have never tried it say they do not need it and are happy with their current choice.

Get your own conclusions...



Exactly-Or throw in it costs $$$ and its automatically not worth it.
 _GOTOTOP