Ben, I don't think the 470 comes with a canned air adapter. I would, if I were in your shoes, get the Testors Detail Air Brush. It comes in a box with a can of propellant, can adapter, hose and 2 nozzles. Check KMart, Walmart or on the 'net. Should be around $30.00. Perhaps your local hobby shop can order it. One of these was my first AB. Still works good for me. The nozzles clean up easily and other nozzles can be bought at hobby shops for around $5.00 each.
When using canned air, set the can in a container of warm tap water, not boiling.This helps keep the pressure in the can from dropping. And spray in short bursts.
I think this AB is a good learners brush.

Thanks, Ron
But I have airbrushed before, just not models. Just looking for a good a/b that I can use for a long time.

Well today durring 1st hour i had an excellent idea use my dad's nail gun compressor it might be loud but i have ear protectors he used when in the airforce. SO besides sound would there be any other problems with using one this size? any special adaptions i need to do so? or was this a morring of too much caffine too think logicaly?

Now I'm not totally sure on what compressor to use I asked a friend of mine who used to model but he said he didn't buy the compressor it came with the airbrush. So i don't know what size is best because i'm looking for the most cost efficant way to use the airbursh but also the most reliable Any suggestions?

Difference between spray and hand brush...try to your car as an example...what if they hand brush your car?

Well I just got my first airbrush it's a Badger single action but all that I need for a start. now do you have any idea of what paint to use oil acrylic? for airbrushing plaster

I would say for fastest results with the easiest clean-up use acrylics.

You can thin them down with water mixed with a little isopropyl alcohol (about five drops per 1/4 cup of paint) and a drop or two of flow improver. Straining the thinned down paint through 10x or 12x silkscreen silk to ensure there are no impurities is also very beneficial and ensures not getting any splotches of unthinned paint.

Ok...now its my turn, lol.... I started with a Paasche VL double action when I was 12 (I'm now 37) I still have that same AB and it works fine. All said I have a total of 11 airbrushes. I have used the Testors AB's, but wasn't comfortable with the way it felt and worked. I switched to a Badger 200 SG Gravity feed for detail and a Paasche H for general use. I know alot of you are saying "11!, You have 11??!!" When I find an AB that I think I might like I grab it, if it isn't too exspensive. I even grabbed a Paasche AB Turbo. Really finicky and I only use it to shoot inks. Anything else and it'll clog. I guess my point is for a first time AB I would reccomend the Paasche H single action. You can buy a couple of extra head/needle assemblies to switch out for smaller detail work, and also use the standard #3 and #5 tips for more general applications.
As far as an air source goes....CO2 all the way. The initial cost is a little high, but in relation to having to fix worn parts on a compressor and the noise they produce, it will pay for itself. I have 3 - 20lb CO2 tanks that I have "Acquired" over the years. They offer complete silence, they don't wear out and a single fill-up will last (depending on usage) a long long long time. I average filling mine once a year and I crank out some models...8-10 per year anyways. I just have to have the tanks Hydro tested once every 5 years to make sure they aren't crapping out on me. For the money invested they are well worth it. My total investment for the entire rig set me back just shy of $125.00 but they tank was used. HTH.. "Q"

I started out hand brushing, probably just as most new moderlers out there. But as my skill increased so did the need for a better method of painting camo schemes (especially on German armor). I have tried various airbrushes, from the most inexpensive to high range. I use almost exclusively my Badger 150 double action, internal mix fof fine line detail and camo schemes. For base coating, I use a Badger 200 single action, internal mix. An air compressor is a must, with a pressure control and moisture trap. Always practice on a a scrap piece of styrene, not index cards or paper, before you apply any paint to the model. This will show the actual pressure and paint consistency, cardboard or paper will absorb the paint and not show true results. Practice makes perfect.

I like to use acrylic paint when using my airbrushes, it is easier on the brush and won't kill your children's brain cells either. I get great results from Tamiya's range of colors. But some mixing is necessary to get tonal accuracy. I do at times, use humbrol enamels when painting U.S. and British armor. Always thin your paints no less then a 1:1 ratio. I thin my Tamiya acrylic's at a 1:1 ratio with either Tamiya Thinner or 70% alchohol. I thin enamels 3:1 with thinner or mineral spirits. Practice on a scrap piece of plastic or an old model to see the consistency. Work with what makes you comfortable.