login   |    register

Scale Modeling Sponsors

See Your Ad Here!

172
M1114 FRAG 5 w/GPK Turret

  • move
Construction part 1
So I started with the model that had been built up from kit TM-7201 (35-39), which had been finished as ready for painting, so fortunately not all cemented together, and here we see it broken back down into its main assemblies (40-43). I began by adding some of the metal details, starting with the etched radiator sheet (44), an enhancement that will be hidden if you cement the hood down, but there is sufficient detail in the engine compartment to display it open, although it will require a little cleaning work on the underside of the hood.

With the main body flipped over the additional armour plates are added to the underside of the front wheel arches (45, 46). The side profile of these is shown in the instructions, but note that it should not overlap the armour plate of the sides of the vehicles, the edge of which should remain visible in the wheel arch. Here I have already done things the wrong way round, which wouldn’t have happened had I been building the kit from the beginning, in that I have the wrong side amour, from the first kit. Having put sprues back in the box, I didn’t notice this until the new doors didn’t fit… but I’m getting ahead of myself. Moving to the rear arches, more armour plate is added (47). A portion of these metal strips isn’t in contact with anything, spanning across the angled join, so I added extra glue, and then sanded down the excess.

The clear radiator / headlamp component also receives some tiny strips of metal to represent the way the headlamp surround is mounted to the chassis with pressed metal brackets (48), and then a strip of mesh is added the inside of the front grille (49). Continuing the enhancement of the front end, but moving to the bonnet / hood (50), whereas before the slats in the plastic were inset (50A) so that an etched square of louvre could be applied on top, in this kit we are instructed to cut out the plastic entirely (50B). The square of mesh is added from the underside (C) followed by the louvre being added from the top (50D). In the same step 14 (see photo 31) we are instructed to fit part PE3, which is a Combat Identification Panel, a PE square which is scored to be bent into a kind of concertina shape. I made an attempt at bending it, but had no idea how to achieve it, and eventually it broke apart. There is a plastic version of this piece on sprue F, designed I think to hang on a door, perhaps this could be used as a template to shape the PE part.

Either side of the radiator grille on the hood, the two reinforcing plates are applied to the holes through which the lifting rings will protrude (51). In the same photo the transparent outer grille / headlamp unit has been added. Note that the instructions show the inner radiator grille / inner headlamp unit, with the mesh, from photo 49 being assembled together and then added to the chassis later, prior to the hood being attached. The problem I have with that sequence is that the interior of this assembly would need to be painted at this point, as the headlamp inner will be visible through the clear lamp lenses, and the mesh through the main front grille bars. So instead I assembled the clear front grille / lamp unit to the hood, and added the tiny triangles of metal either side (52, 53). The top of the clear front grille has some small ridges that need to be sanded perfectly flat, something that is quite hard to see prior to painting.

Moving to the doors then, each door is made up of seven parts, the inner and outer shell, two glazing panes, two pieces of PE armour and the big external door handle that includes the ring for wrenching damaged doors off (54, 55). Some may prefer to assemble the outer and inner, apply paint, then sandwich them together so that the clear parts needn’t be masked, but I assembled all of them in one go (56, 57). The strip that protects the top of each door has only a small contact point with the plastic, so these were a little tricky to secure. Note that although the plastic includes what appear to be holes for some inset fasteners, there should perhaps also be external bolts, and that the holes on the PE plate should also possibly be bolts instead of holes, so if you wanted to add that sort of detail, now is the time.

The next photo (58) shows the assembly of that corrected upper rear panel, now without the a/c vents. Here we also see a couple of my errors in this build… first, I added the small square of PE armour that covers the vent just in front of the front door, which later fell off, hit the floor and disappeared; worse, this is the side panel from the first kit, me having become distracted with making progress, forgetting that this kit requires the new side panels. This became obvious when I test fitted the doors and found they didn’t fit.

Anyway, moving on, we see other small PE details being added, tie down rings on the front end (59) and towing gear details to the rear end (60). Modelling with PE is not my favourite thing, and not one of my best skills, but I plunged on with constructing the turret armour, first bending it to a box shape (61), then curving in the front edges, folding in the side brackets and adding the rear brackets (62). If you can solder, you’ll do a better job of this than me. Finally the handles are added to the front (63), and these need to be firmly attached, then any external evidence abraded away to a flush finish. Happy to say they didn’t fall off, not even once, but there are two sets provided on the sheet, just in case.
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move
  • move

About the Author

About Matthew Lenton (firstcircle)
FROM: ENGLAND - SOUTH EAST, UNITED KINGDOM

Earliest model memory is a Super Sabre my grandmother bought for me in around 1972. We cut the pieces off the sprue with an ivory handled butter knife. Have always dabbled in painting and making things, and rediscovered doing that with plastic in 2008. Vowed then to complete the 30 year old stash...


Comments

Very nice ! Very fine details for this scale.
MAR 25, 2018 - 09:12 AM
WOW, that's an amazing model.
MAR 25, 2018 - 09:51 AM
The model looks great, thanks for the very thorough build review Matthew. I like the braille scale Humvees from T-Molds, and with all the reviews I have found on-line, it seems the kits are mastered well. My only gripe is with the interior, which looks pretty basic, and the tires. I did notice an aftermarket set of resin tires which should help, but as far as I know there is no aftermarket update for the interior. I do wonder how much of the interior is visible on such a tiny model though... Mario
MAR 25, 2018 - 09:53 AM
There should be an extendable platform for the gunner between the seats. And there should be a small shelf on the center dashboard holding a radio set and computer screen and keyboard.
MAR 25, 2018 - 11:25 AM
Yes, I agree about the interior details being basic, and my comment about decals being the only thing missing should have included these points (I had them in mind... then they slipped away again) I think the gunner step is the most obvious because it would be visible directly underneath the turret ring if the hatch is open. It would probably be quite easy to scratch as I think it is basically a box with a ridged top surface, like the floor, but it would have been good if it had been added to the additional sprue with the CREW antennae. In answer to Mario's question about what is visible through the windows when all the doors are shut - not a lot, other what can be seen through the turret hatch, which is not much at all. It's a different story if you wanted to have any of the doors open. The interior door details are quite good, but as you correctly point out, the rest is quite simple. The comms / data gear that should be in the front would also have been a nice addition to the new sprue. The seats themselves are also a little basic. With all the doors shut however, it's not a big issue. Regarding the wheels, for me they are only a problem from the point of view of buildability, but I think T-Model have pretty much acknowledged this, and even themselves posted a link to an aftermarket set of resin wheels by ScissorHandz, although I'm not sure of their availability outside of Asia.
MAR 26, 2018 - 01:40 AM
@Matthew; I'm struggling through my M1114 - If you had suggested "over-engineering" I would not disagree. I notice you did not use the concerntina-fold PE piece on the rear hood (bonnet). I found that piece impossible so I made one out of styrene strip- then discovered it is an optional part. On further M1114's I'll just discard it altogether. Don't particularly like the clear grill just for the sake of two molded-in headlight lenses. Would have preferred a solid-color grill with holes for separate clear lenses. Complicates painting with extra masking. Still, I would take this one over Revell's any day.
MAR 26, 2018 - 11:13 AM
Perhaps an aftermarket company would tackle the lack of interior details. I tried to find more about Scissor Handz, but no luck... hopefully some of the international on-line vendors would pick up their line. Anyway, back to the subject... I really like the Termin Molds model, it looks really good and your version did it justice. I don't usually do 1/72, but the Humvee is a very interesting subject for me and I might just take my chance with the braille scale. I wonder if the company is considering making more Humvee versions; GMV and other Special Ops versions comes to mind. Mario
MAR 26, 2018 - 07:30 PM
Great build up and love the colour choice.
MAR 27, 2018 - 02:00 AM
Biggles, I felt that the PE enhancements, while they improve the look of the kit, do take it to another level of fiddliness, and as I recall from when building the first kit, there are a few other stressful moments, such as the steering wheel, which seemed more complicated than necessary, and certainly that is true of the wheels. That concertina piece, the Combat Identification Panel - yes, in the text I said that the same thing happened to me, I have literally no idea how to use that piece, without a special former perhaps, but note that there is a plastic one on the accessories sprue, but it is framed, so I think it's to be hung on a door. Apparently these devices have a thermal signature that is different from the vehicle, I think the ridging is to keep them cool; it is supposed to make the vehicle recognisable to any pilots considering destroying them. Definitely optional, they seem to just tie or hang in place, I think they were used at the start of the Iraq war. Also agree, clear headlamp unit makes it tricky to paint, as I pointed out, the instructions don't take account of the need to paint what is behind it, but then most kit instructions don't, I guess. I didn't get it masked 100% accurately, but found that a blob of masking fluid was a lot easier than trying to cut a circle of tape that small. Hope this feature proves of some help however, and looking forward to seeing yours done. Don't forget those joins on the rear side to upper panel. Mario, I think T-Model is planning even more variants, going by the fact that on the new sprue K there is a so far unused turret ring (8), and rear tail plate (3), and then you have already seen the CROWS II device they have designed, I wonder if that will go with the turret, and I am guessing there may also be an OGPK variant. Thanks for the comps, Alex, Dave and Peter, it is appreciated.
MAR 27, 2018 - 02:06 AM
Excellent build and finish indeed. I love it.
MAR 30, 2018 - 12:11 PM
We broke our quick reply box. Working on it. Until fixed go to topic to reply.
Thanks.