I have some rigid pink foam insulation (not the loose stuff) that I'm thinking of using to build up some groundwork. Anyone used this? If it can be used, what type of glue should be applied?

It's all I have been using for the last year or so.
It cuts and sands easily.
Any white glue or carpenters glue will work fine.
The main thing to always remember is to only use water based paints,as any other type will eat in to the foam and ruin your work.
I also advise to paint the bottom or in most cases when the paint dries if only on the top it will warp.
Good luck.

I use it too. It works great. You can sand hills, valleys, tire ruts in a dirt road, etc., right into it (just wear a mask).

I use a glue I got at Michael's that specially made for styrofoam. I can remember the name, but it comes in a blue toothpaste-style tube. It seems like it's just really thick white glue, but their might be some other ingredients in it as well. It's great for attaching other things to the polyfoam, such as buidings or wood or plastic edging, etc.

Rob

I use a foam base in all my dios. It can be shaped easily and put together using Elmers Glue which is also known as White Glue or PVA glue.

The main shortcoming of a foam base is it needs a rigid bottom for its base. No big deal if the foam base is small but if its slightly bigger or if you intend to slap on plaster or celluclay over it, a rigid base under the foam is necessary. This can be a piece of plywood, etc. This is because whenever you move the base and if its just foam alone it will likely result in cracks in your plaster/celluclay groundwork on account foam bends slightly even if its thick.

The other is the attachment of your figs, tanks, etc. Foam no matter how compressed it may be is not solid enough to hold much weight. Not an issue if you have plaster or celluclay over foam. Along the same lines, superglue tends to melt foam. Again not a problem if the model or its anchoring pin is stuck to the plaster/celluclay layer. Certain thinners attack foam as well.

I just use thick cardboard cut from a big box under mine. And for groundwork I use spackle with real dirt sprinkled on top, so then I put a pin in each figure's foot and then glue them down, the pin help anchoring them in place. With only a thin layer of the groundwork over the foam, it's easy to get the pin into the ground. I've never had a figure come loose from one of these bases. I just use krazy glue.

If you seal the foam with a coat of white (Elmers) glue, then you can use whatever type of paint you want to since the white glue will protect the foam from being eaten away by the chemicals.

After using a basic foam shape I use a combination of Laticrete Grout (comes in various colors). Great for desert scenes and dries rock hard with little or NO shrinkage.

You can also add some Celluclay and cat Litter if you wish. All paints up well.

Keith.

Anyone familiar with the green floral bricks? I've used these, great to sculpt and mold, glue together for a desired base shape, put into a frame and put spackle/plaster, etc on top.

I adopt some rigid yellow foam insulation panels and they work wonderfully. With vinyl cement I glue a layer of modelling paste on them (usually DAS) then I start my "ground works"...That's really effective

I've heard a lot of people use this stuff for groundwork, but I've never been able to find it. Where do you buy it at?

I get mine at Home Depot. It comes in 4 X 8 foot sheets. It's usually in the lumber section.

Thanks. I'll have a look.

Steve

If you go around to construction sites (after finishing time)you can pick up discarded pieces and scraps for free.

Mee too Dave, i got a 4x8 sheet of the blue and that will last me a two/three years. Stuff works great Barry! I think mine was $9.00 bucks.

Gary

I use a lot of the stuff - blue, pink, and the open cell white Styrofoam brand - for dioramas, vignettes, and table-top war gaming scenery.

A hot glue gun makes short work out of putting terrain bits together. I've used white glue in the past, but the drying time for layered foam is forever! But, with a hot glue gun, the glue cools and sets in seconds and you're ready to move on.