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Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
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HELP WITH VERLINDEN
210cav
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Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Friday, September 12, 2014 - 02:12 AM UTC
Just bought a Verlinden building of a destroyed mansion. I have never put these together before, what is the best adhesive for this type of material? Any other thoughts or procedures on construction would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
DJ
Biggles2
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Friday, September 12, 2014 - 02:45 AM UTC
Depends if it's a resin casting or plaster (hydrocal). They make both. If resin - sand the mating surfaces to roughen it up and level it, and use CA. If hydrocal - sand to level the mating surfaces and use white glue.
jon_a_its
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
Joined: April 29, 2004
KitMaker: 1,336 posts
Armorama: 1,137 posts
Posted: Friday, September 12, 2014 - 03:29 AM UTC
Or 5min/30 min 2 part epoxy, for plaster or resin,
depending on how much wiggle room you need?
obg153
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Texas, United States
Joined: April 07, 2009
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,049 posts
Posted: Friday, September 12, 2014 - 03:32 AM UTC
I've built a number of Verlinden kits, both resin and plaster. For the resin ones, CA works fine after prepping the mating surfaces. I prefer the plaster as they are easier to modify, add bomb/bullet damage, etc.. One thing I usually do, especially if the building has upper levels or more than two corners, is to drill small holes in each mating surface, then insert pieces of round toothpicks (like re-bar) to help strengthen the join. Allow to dry for 24hrs at least. Prior to painting, spray a light coat of matte finish cause the plaster tends to soak up your paint. Hope this helps!
210cav
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Virginia, United States
Joined: February 05, 2002
KitMaker: 6,149 posts
Armorama: 4,573 posts
Posted: Friday, September 12, 2014 - 04:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I've built a number of Verlinden kits, both resin and plaster. For the resin ones, CA works fine after prepping the mating surfaces. I prefer the plaster as they are easier to modify, add bomb/bullet damage, etc.. One thing I usually do, especially if the building has upper levels or more than two corners, is to drill small holes in each mating surface, then insert pieces of round toothpicks (like re-bar) to help strengthen the join. Allow to dry for 24hrs at least. Prior to painting, spray a light coat of matte finish cause the plaster tends to soak up your paint. Hope this helps!



Guys-- I should have stated it is the plaster cast house. Great directions from all of you and I thank you for your assistance
DJ
melonhead
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: July 29, 2010
KitMaker: 662 posts
Armorama: 457 posts
Posted: Friday, September 12, 2014 - 05:26 AM UTC
For plaster, I have used superglue as well and works fine. In the end, you will have to do gap filling simply because the plaster is warped, shrunk, mishaped. So you would be best off with something that fills at the same time
jesmith
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United States
Joined: October 30, 2009
KitMaker: 18 posts
Armorama: 8 posts
Posted: Friday, September 12, 2014 - 06:33 AM UTC
You can also use the dry powder drywall mud you get from a building supply store. It is about half hydrocal, and depending on the "set" time of the mud, it can give you plenty of time to wiggle and adjust.
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