My dilemma is whether to buy H&S or Iwata.

I have done loads of research and am still none the wiser, I'm beginning to think it might be like the Android vs Apple, Nikon vs Canon, Xbox vs Playstation fanboy wars.

So if I go H&S it will be a 2in1 Evolution, Silverline or Infinity. And if I go with a Iwata it will be HP Plus or Hi-Line.

My opinions of the H&S 2in 1 are

0.2mm and 0.4mm setups
Interchangeable cups
Pincer end cap
Easier strip down for cleaning
Cheaper parts (you can get two H&S nozzles for the price of an Iwata)

My opinions of the Iwata

More established name
Stuck with a single cup size (which is a dilemma - which one)

So on paper based on my thoughts alone the H&S wins.

But then I read reviews and posts and this is the sort of things I read

The H&S is better built
The Iwata is better built
The H&S clogs easily
The H&S starts off good but gets worse and more problematic with time
The Iwata improves with age
The Iwata is more robust
The H&S is more easily damaged

Obviously the best thing were to try both but I don't have that opportunity. Stockists in the UK tend to carry one brand or another but not both.

So looking for some final opinions, preferably by people who have owned/tried both and can be impartial.

Cheers,

Nigel

I should add that my big sticking point with the Iwata is Paint Cup Size.

Most of my work is 1:35 armour, though I would like to try 1:72 and 1:48 aircraft when my skills improve.

If I were forced to name an Iwata it would have to be the HP-C Plus. I think that cup size is needed for base coats. But I'm concerned that when I'm trying to get into detail then the big cup will obscure what I'm trying to do.

But if I get an HP-B Plus I think I will need another airbrush (a revolution or eclipse) to do the primer and basecoats because of the cup size and the 0.2mm nozzle of the HP-B Plus. And then I fear I would end up using the Eclipse more than the HP-B Plus.

So I keep coming back to the HP-C Plus being the best choice capable of base and detail, just a pity that it is always stuck with the big paint cup.

Cheers,

Nigel

Hi Nigel

Do you need something as precise as the HP-C for doing base coats?

I'd have thought a much cheaper brush with large capacity cup for doing base coats and then the Iwata with small cup for doing fine work , if that's how you see it.

I don't tend to look down the airbrush, like looking down a rifle to aim, but above it or slightly to one side anyway.

At the end of the day I doubt at this price level you'll see a huge difference in quality, ease of use between whatever you choose, and the real deciding factor over the end results will be the person pulling the trigger not which airbrush you are using.

Alan

Sorry, didn't make myself clear. If Iwata my thoughts would either be

HP-C+ for everything
HP-C+ for most, but something basic (like an HP-CR) for primer, base, metallic
HP-B+ for detail, something basic (like an HP-CR or HP-CS) for the heavier stuff

Cheers,

Nigel

Nigel, one thing, enamels or acrylic?

The remark about H&S clogging I can vouch for I have an Evolution and use acrylics and even though it gets striped and cleaned at the end of a day's spraying it is now clogged and I can't work out where. On the other hand my Iwata TR1 has caused me no issues and is so simple to clean.

The reason for the TR1 is I suffer from hand pain when using the normal top trigger thing where as the trigger on the TR offers no pain, however I got the Evo for detail work but as I've said above it clogs very easily so have never really got much use out of it.

Nigel,
The paints you intend to use have a lot to do with what brush is recommended.

I own and use the the Iwata. HP-B+ and the H&S infinity CR plus. Both are great airbrushes. The Iwata is built heavier in most areas, has a smooth trigger pull and is capable of lovely detail. The H&S is built more lightly which makes manipulating it easier to use for me. It has a smooth trigger pull and details slightly better than the Iwata with properly thinned paint.

I do 90% of my detail spraying with Tamiya paint sprayed with their lacquer thinner at a ratio of 2 to 4 parts lacquer thinner to 1 part paint. Tip dry is not an issue for me at all, nor is clogging. If you use Vallejo paints or one of the other water based acrylics, you will run into more problems. The paints are good, but the tips of the above brushes are very small and the paint will be more likely to clog. Clogging and tip dry can be minimized but not prevented by using retarders or flow enhancers. Obviously, large tip sizes can move heavy viscosity fluids much more easily. If you only use water based acrylics, I'd recommend you go with a larger tip brush.

If you want to go with one brush only, the 2 in 1 Infinity is a good choice. You have the different tip sizes available to get closer to the optimum size for each purpose and they are very easy to change. The Iwata HP-C+ is a compromise. It won't do super fine detail, but it will do well enough for most uses. It will also base coat better than the Infinity or HP-B with the small tip.

Your budget is the other driving factor since the best performance will be achieved by buying a brush built for specific function: large tip size for base coats, and the smaller tips for detail. Please remember, small tips will only be useful if you use paints that allow heavy thinning while still retaining integrity.

One last thing, get brushes with solvent proof seals! The paint you use may not contain solvents, but most cleaners do. Non solvent proof seals can and do swell making for really bad experiences where brushes suddenly don't function correctly.

Hope this helps...,
Cheers
Paul H

As I'm a Iwata user, I would recommend the Iwata.
Here's why: however H&S did change there formula for there chrome they use. I managed this fade out with age. Therefore, I would stick with Iwata.
Secondly. In the 6 - 7 years I have the HP-B+ I never broke a nozzle or needle. These are much tougher then the H&S ones which I had to replace to much in my opinion.

On personal sight, the H&S reacts to smooth for me, which I wasn't able to control it much. I know, it a personal thing and many would say I would practice more. But if I can do it with an Iwata which works better for me, then it's iwata.

That's my humble opinion...

Good luck!

The Iwata brushes discussed above are definately built more like a tank than the H&S Infinity. With that being said, I have never in the 3 years I've used my Infinity had to replace a single piece. Normal care and cleaning when using a fine piece of equipment is all I've done to have flawless performance.

I don't treat my H&S any different than my Iwata, Badger, Thayer or Tamiya brushes. All have served me very well.

PH

Even though the HS trigger action looks trick, I prefer the actual action of the Iwatas. Response feels more positive in my hands.

Paul

Hi,

It really depends on colour. I will always try and spray with acrylics because rather than enamel because the fumes are less noxious.

Having said that I have plenty of humbrol paints from my brush painting days and I do have some White Ensign enamels to get specific colours (such as SCC 15).

Most of my acrylic paints are Tamiya - basically it is easiest for me to get Tamiya, Humbrol Acrylics or Revell Aqua Colour - anything else has to be mail ordered. Of those three I prefer Tamiya.

I do have a smattering of Humbrol, Revell and Vallejo acrylics where I needed a particular colour that Tamiya can't provide - such as Humbrol for german maritime RLM colours and Vallejo Air for Russian Green.

So in answer to your question, mostly acrylic and mostly Tamiya - but with occasional other makes of acrylic and some enamels thrown in.

By far the majority is 1:35 armour but I would like to do 1:72 and 1:48 aircraft when my skills improve.

Cheers,

Nigel

Let's say I were to get an HP-C+.

Mostly to use acrylics but with some enamels (humbrol and white ensign) occasionally.

Mostly Tamiya but with some water based acrylics (humbrol, revell, vallejo) occasionally.

Would you consider that brush would do everything?

Or would you prefer to have a detail brush and a base brush.

Cheers,

Nigel

If it were me:

HP-C (skip the MAC valve)



Hi-Line Th (out of Japan ...not the Kustom)



Both airbrushes out of Japan ...$250
Paul

Thanks that is very interesting - the Hi-Line TH I assume is for priming, base coats, clear coats etc.

Okay I will bite - I assume the Hi-Line TH because of its fan-shaped spray.

In the UK the Hi-Line TH would be about $490 on its own. I am in the US on business for two weeks soon and have plenty of colleagues who can take delivery of the parcel for me. I've seen the HP-C+ for about $125 in the US but can you really get the Hi_line for similar money?

Cheers,

Nigel

Nigel,
I'd recommend checking Amazon UK for the HP-TH. Sometimes they have the brush for way less than retail if that is the way you decide to go.

PH

I would get both out of Japan. No connection with this seller, but I have probably bought at least 8 Iwata airbrushes and guns from this seller, always reliable. Add the extra couple of bucks for EMS shipping and I get it in a week here on the west coast. Personally, I am not a fan of many Amazon Japanese sellers because of the limited choices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANEST-IWATA-HP-TH-AirBrush-0-5mm-Hi-Line-From-Japan-/181872482849?hash=item2a5871da21:g:rE0AAOSwirZTw8zs

Paul

Wow that's interesting. So you can vouch that the stuff he sells is genuine?

I am always a bit unsure of eBay especially when you see prices like this - that is why I have been looking at the ones fulfilled by Amazon - at least I can go back to Amazon if I end up with a copy.

With eBay I would have two choices. Deliver to UK or to US. With UK I would mostly get hit with VAT (20%) plus the courier fee. With the US I have to gamble that it will arrive before I leave - but that is in four weeks so should not be an issue.

Can sometimes be difficult to get PayPal to accept a US delivery address from a UK account though.

Cheers,

Nigel

He states it pretty clearly that it is genuine. Everything has always come in kosher packaging with the proper stickers etc.

As an additional bit. The TH actually performs much better with the round pattern (included with the airbrush). There is something about the head design that allows for a larger and better atomized pattern than a typical airbrush with a .05mm needle and nozzle. First time I used it years ago, I was amazed at the smooth fine material surface. I think the fan head is more of a gimmick.

If you want a fan pattern, get the real deal like an Eclipse G5. The fan pattern should be adjustable.

This short video will explain fan patterns better ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZDujJy5wdI

Thanks for the info. I know very little about fan patterns so I just thought that was why you were suggesting it over a standard 0.5mm airbrush.

Cheers,

Nigel

Nigel,
I understand, but I just wanted to let you know that with the round pattern in place, for general coverage, you will get a surface finish superior to any standard style airbrush. And in the round configuration, the airbrush is extremely easy to use and forgiving in pressure/material combinations. I know modelers who use the fan pattern, but because of their fixation on fan patterns, they haven't given the round aircap a try.

Paul