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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
OPR on Panzer Grey
11Bravo_C2
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 06:04 PM UTC
What oil colors would you use to perform the Rinaldi OPR on Panzer Grey?
jasperck
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 06:44 PM UTC
I've been successful using various shades of brown and green, with a little bit of black or grey for variety. My palette usually consists of Winsor & Newton olive green, burnt umber, black, white, and pale green. I know that some people also use blue, but I've never tried that.
ColinEdm
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Posted: Tuesday, April 12, 2016 - 07:17 PM UTC
I use colours similar to what Jasper uses, plus the blue, I find it goes well with the grey. I have used a blue filter as well.
rinaldi119
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 01:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

What oil colors would you use to perform the Rinaldi OPR on Panzer Grey?



Here is the closet pic I could find of a Panzer Grey subject and using the oils, yes, it's got some white wash but the tones are still basically similar. The grays for tinting the base coat, the various earth colors for the dirt/mud and dust tones, the dark browns for the grease and grime, and some rust in there too.



I do plan a new painting project to cover just this topic in the future, I have an early Panzer IV in Panzer Gray to explore this color scheme and OPR at length...
11Bravo_C2
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 03:59 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I've been successful using various shades of brown and green, with a little bit of black or grey for variety. My palette usually consists of Winsor & Newton olive green, burnt umber, black, white, and pale green. I know that some people also use blue, but I've never tried that.




Quoted Text

I use colours similar to what Jasper uses, plus the blue, I find it goes well with the grey. I have used a blue filter as well.



Thanks Jasper and Colin.. Some similar colors as I have selected. Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Payne Grey for me so far. I didn't think about using the greens or brighter colors in the Pz Grey though.


11Bravo_C2
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 04:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Here is the closet pic I could find of a Panzer Grey subject and using the oils, yes, it's got some white wash but the tones are still basically similar. The grays for tinting the base coat, the various earth colors for the dirt/mud and dust tones, the dark browns for the grease and grime, and some rust in there too.



I do plan a new painting project to cover just this topic in the future, I have an early Panzer IV in Panzer Gray to explore this color scheme and OPR at length...




Those color seem more appropriate for what i'm attempting to do with my model. Did you do the rendering afer applying the Whitewash? And that image looks familiar. I have some of your books, still reading #2.

Thirian24
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 06:26 PM UTC
What does OPR stand for?
ColinEdm
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 06:31 PM UTC
OPR = Oil Paint Rendering
Thirian24
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 06:54 PM UTC
Thank you Colin.
rinaldi119
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 11:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Here is the closet pic I could find of a Panzer Grey subject and using the oils, yes, it's got some white wash but the tones are still basically similar. The grays for tinting the base coat, the various earth colors for the dirt/mud and dust tones, the dark browns for the grease and grime, and some rust in there too.



I do plan a new painting project to cover just this topic in the future, I have an early Panzer IV in Panzer Gray to explore this color scheme and OPR at length...




Those color seem more appropriate for what i'm attempting to do with my model. Did you do the rendering afer applying the Whitewash? And that image looks familiar. I have some of your books, still reading #2.




That's a fairly typical palette for most armor projects, the tones are what they are and no real need to overthink the basic effects needed to weather a model, such as dust and dirt and grease and grime -- the only colors that really get changed out often are the tones related to the base colors, in this case you will add grays and blues and even some reds if you like a warmer range for Panzer Grey.

Yes, I apply the oils after all the painting is done, and even after the pigments in some cases.
Thirian24
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Posted: Wednesday, April 13, 2016 - 11:52 PM UTC
Not to steal this thread away, but this is something I haven't asked before (I've never used oil paints) how long do you let them dry after using them to weather? Is a laquer dull coat applied after they have dried?
easyco69
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 12:32 AM UTC
White and light tans/buff – used for general fading, adding dust, whitewashes, and lightening (when mixing) other colors to create additional shades

Yellows (from pale yellow to orangish-red) – used for tinting greens and Dunkelgelb paintjobs, plus add light rust tones, or warm tones in general

Dark Browns (from rust tones to very dark almost black-brown) – used for shadows, heavy rust, grease, dirt and mud that can be caused by any factor or elements, great for stains too

Greens – used to enhance any green or yellow camo, from OD to pale green, also good for green moss and similar plant life, overall limited uses, but very powerful for military models

Reds – used to fade/enhance red primer, red/brown camo, and red markings or add any strong red tone

Blues – used to fade/enhance Panzergrau, anything with blue camo and markings, etc. Can also be used to tint green paint schemes, such as OD or forest green, for a more bluish tint

Black – rarely used, and usually just for the darkest shadows, or darkest oil stains and exhausts, and to enhance exposed metallic edges, also used to darken other colors

Grays – used to deaden a color (to make it more neutral), imparts a cool color tone that is good for winter finishes, can also be used to lighten some darker tones, and for fading Panzergrau tones

Light browns – used a lot for middle earth tones and summer finishes, often mixed with other colors to create special earth tones.
rinaldi119
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 12:39 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Not to steal this thread away, but this is something I haven't asked before (I've never used oil paints) how long do you let them dry after using them to weather? Is a laquer dull coat applied after they have dried?



Hi Dustin, this online article will get you started on what the term is and using oils for weathering in this manner.

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html

Once they are dry, which is usually very fast because the linseed oil has been removed, there is no real need to seal with a lacquer coat because they already are dried paint and the finish is matte. You can if you want, especially for gamers, just not really a necessity for a static display piece.
Thirian24
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 12:46 AM UTC
Thank you very much for the link and the reply, sir!
easyco69
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 01:21 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Not to steal this thread away, but this is something I haven't asked before (I've never used oil paints) how long do you let them dry after using them to weather? Is a laquer dull coat applied after they have dried?


a couple days full dry. Linseed oil will leave a shiny appearance so yes, use dullcote sparingly to kill the shine.Oil paint + thinner + linseed oil ( breaks it up better)or makes it like a glaze, transparent...however takes longer to dry.
It will take a bit of messing around to get the mix ratio right especially for a figures face for example. Think..thin layers..& not 1 coat because it will be too thick & fill in the detail on you.
Oil paint is just plain magic on models. You can tell the difference in a model done with & one did without oil paint. Gives more depth...try it.
Just use it for weathering over acrylic.
11Bravo_C2
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 01:36 AM UTC
Thanks y'all!! Always good info and responses from the members here. I really like the way y'all always make "room" to help others.



easyco69
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Posted: Thursday, April 14, 2016 - 01:42 AM UTC
Lots of reference on the net.


11Bravo_C2
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Posted: Friday, April 15, 2016 - 03:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text



...this online article will get you started on what the term is and using oils for weathering in this manner.

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html





Quoted Text

For the thinner, I use high-quality odorless turpentine. I strongly recommend at least a quality art store brand, and better still--use the 502 Abt. “Odourless Turpentine” from Mig Productions, or the new AK Interactive “Odourless Turpentine” product. These are the best products available for our use. I do not recommend using enamel thinner for this technique because it does not provide the right consistency for blending, and is too strong of a thinner in general--plus it smells terrible for prolonged use.




What is the reason behind using Odourless Turpentine? Can Artist Mineral Spirit or Sansodor be used also?
rinaldi119
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Posted: Saturday, April 16, 2016 - 12:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text



...this online article will get you started on what the term is and using oils for weathering in this manner.

http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/oilpaintrenderingmr_1.html





Quoted Text

For the thinner, I use high-quality odorless turpentine. I strongly recommend at least a quality art store brand, and better still--use the 502 Abt. “Odourless Turpentine” from Mig Productions, or the new AK Interactive “Odourless Turpentine” product. These are the best products available for our use. I do not recommend using enamel thinner for this technique because it does not provide the right consistency for blending, and is too strong of a thinner in general--plus it smells terrible for prolonged use.




What is the reason behind using Odourless Turpentine? Can Artist Mineral Spirit or Sansodor be used also?



The quote explains why, Odourless Thinners are a higher quality product better for blending, plus the low odor is better all around for extended use. The product is also not as "hot" as other chemicals and gentler on our paint too. A bottle of OT from a hobby brand will last a very very long time in use this way, trust me, it is money well spent.

I don't use other thinners with oils, so it's up to you to test and see what results you get. Certainly they will work to vary degrees, I just feel it is better to discuss the technique as used and not some idea of "will this work or that"...it just confuses the conversation. Same with the linseed oil, if you don't put the oils on cardboard you will simply struggle will all aspects of using them, blending is a mess, they dry glossy and take much much longer to dry as well...basically almost unusable in this way. It is best for me to be clear and precise with the how and why of these ideas.
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