Hi guys
I'm new in this (sort of...) so forgive me if this is already posted and answered elsewhere ...
- When I'm painting and weathering armor, should I "seal" the paint with varnish before weathering ? If so, what kind of varnish, matt, satin or gloss...?
And what about after the finished model ?
Tks

Yes you want to seal yor model with a clear.If you plan to weather with enamels or oils,then seal with acrylic.If you weather with acrylics,then seal with enamel or lacquer.

As far as what kind,it depends on your preference.Gloss works for pinwashes,flat for filters and streaking,but there are all kinds of different schools for weathering to investigate.

Tks for the help...

It's really a personal choice Pedro, I used to apply a clear coat before applying my weathering but I don't anymore and haven't for some time now. I find it to be a completely unnecessary added step.

To be perfectly honest, it's one of those things that gets handed down from modeler to modeler in publications and social media until it becomes just another dogmatic law that must be adhered to. It may have benefits but it also has drawbacks, so the best way to answer your question would be to experiment on some side items and see what works for you.

Gloss can be way too slick and your weathering will wipe away far too easily, it wont bite and any added applications over time of other weathering effects will simply reactivate the previous layer and either wash it away, or blend it into your current layer and in the end become a muddy, monotone mush covering the whole surface.

If you use Tamiya paint, you can just add a little X-22 to your paint and it will give it a slight satin finish without having to apply multiple coats of clears. You can do similar things with other manufacturers paint by adding a little satin varnish to the color but you would again have to experiment to find what works and what doesn't.

As far sealing the finished model, again that's a personal choice and one only the individual can really decide whether it's necessary in order to produce an outcome that they like. I'm not sure what it seals it from, in all the years of finished models sitting on my shelf, they have yet to be rained on or handled in a manner which required them to be 'sealed' from damage. It also gives the entire model a very uniform look and will destroy any nuances in your finish like satin areas and flat areas, dark areas and light areas... all these different textures are what makes a models finish interesting to look at.

Most times when you read of someone applying weathering over flat paint and staining or 'ruining' their finish, it really comes down to applying way too much, way too heavy, and way too fast. I prefer thinning my weathering applications down a great deal (think dirty thinner) and applying them in small, controlled quantities in specific areas over a period of time. This allows me complete control of the effect I am applying as well as its outcome and negates any need for additional applications of clears.

Thin your paint, even thinner than you think it needs to be and paint small. Very small. Let each application dry completely before adding more, even if you have to wait a couple days as the effect when dry will differ a great deal than while still wet. Applying several very thin coats of a color as a filter over a period of time will always look better than one heavy coat right out of the bottle with heavy pigment count and brush marks etc.

Practice and experimentation is the key to not only getting the finish you are after but fully understanding how to get it on future projects.

I don't think that paint itself needs sealing before weathering, but decals do, so add a clear coat after you've applied your markings. This will even out the finish, so washes don't puddle around the edges of exposed decal film, leaving a dark outline. It also provides a uniform surface for your weathering, so there isn't a difference in absorption between the porous, flat paint and a smooth, glossy decal.

Again, personal preference and dogma.


I get perfectly fine results applying decals directly on the paint, burning it in good with multiple applications of softener and there is no carrier film edge to high-lite with a wash and no need for any clears, before or after.

I never varnish armor, even applying decals. No problems if painting with acrylics and making good paintwork.

Cheers!

This.