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Armor/AFV: Vietnam
All things Vietnam
Hosted by Darren Baker
Paint selections.
Stevenb
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Georgia, United States
Joined: January 11, 2017
KitMaker: 7 posts
Armorama: 7 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 - 04:58 AM UTC
Hey guys, I'm going to build a M113 Vietnam area. I need help selecting the proper colors to use. I am going to use Vallejo acrylic model air. I'm new to this and want it to look right. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks, stevenb

Christian1970
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Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Joined: June 16, 2015
KitMaker: 25 posts
Armorama: 25 posts
Posted: Wednesday, February 15, 2017 - 06:47 PM UTC
Maybe I can help.
I use this color set from MIG.
http://www.migjimenez.com/en/smart-sets-colors/279-vietnam-colors-smart-acrylic-set.html

And this color set from Vallejo.
http://www.vallejo-farben.de/vallejo-model-air/model-air-sets/model-air-model-air-set-afv-us-vietnam-olive-drab-set-6-MA78412-i.html

Regards Christian
tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 02:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey guys, I'm going to build a M113 Vietnam area. I need help selecting the proper colors to use. I am going to use Vallejo acrylic model air. I'm new to this and want it to look right. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks, stevenb



Steven,

If you are new to modelling, stick to the basics. Buy the MIG Olive Drab and interior green paints, individually, and some black for the rubber on the track pads and road wheels plus a rusty brown for the metal bits on the tracks. That's it.

Don't weather, don't wash, concentrate on the build. Keep it very, very simple.

Don't get into the "modulation" or graduated colours stuff until you are much, much further along and are quite comfortable with an airbrush.

Focus on clean assembly, no seams or gaps and getting all the road wheels to sit flat on the surface at once.

Getting a simple coat of paint on will be challenging enough the first 5-6 times without doing much weathering or fading or chipping or any of the other fancy effects you see on other guys models.

Keep it simple until you get the basics down pat. Then move on to more difficult finishes and weathering effects.

Paul
Stevenb
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Georgia, United States
Joined: January 11, 2017
KitMaker: 7 posts
Armorama: 7 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 09:19 PM UTC
Thanks, I really appreciate the help
Stevenb
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Georgia, United States
Joined: January 11, 2017
KitMaker: 7 posts
Armorama: 7 posts
Posted: Thursday, February 16, 2017 - 09:21 PM UTC
Thanks, I will do that.
tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Friday, February 17, 2017 - 12:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks, I will do that.


Steven,

If I may be so bold, if you are new at modelling, please realise that it is a skill born of many years of building and painting. Your first several models are probably not going to look the way you want. You may be disheartened ("Crap, why can't I make it look like that picture!), but please don't be so. Assume that at every stage of developing new skills, be they the basic skills of assembly, seam filling, decal application, or advanced skills like scratchbuilding, airbrushing, etc., you're going to be dissatisfied.

Keep at it until you feel comfortable with that level of skill and don't add more complexity until you _are_ comfortable. You don't have to be an expert or perfect or anything, but just feel that you have a handle on things and can take on another challenge. Too much on your plate, all possibly not going well at the same time, is a sure-fire road to frustration.

For the first number of models buy simple kits, even if they are not accurate or exactly what you want to build. Concentrate on the basics.

Keep each stage simple, keep your expectations manageable and remember at all times that this is supposed to be fun!

And it will be.

HTH

Paul
Stevenb
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Georgia, United States
Joined: January 11, 2017
KitMaker: 7 posts
Armorama: 7 posts
Posted: Friday, February 17, 2017 - 01:15 AM UTC
Paul,
I can't thank you enough. I agree with you 100%.
trickymissfit
Joined: October 03, 2007
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,357 posts
Posted: Friday, February 17, 2017 - 09:50 AM UTC
in a Vietnam era track, painting is one of the hardest parts to get right. Paint jobs fade real bad from the top down, and most modelers get this wrong. Plus there was a color difference in O.D. that came into play sometime in 67. It was lighter in color.

Machine guns were usually worn down to near bare metal, unless it was new. While the paint on tracks rarely wore thru to bare metal (just faded). Bare in mind that the hull was aluminum, so there's almost no rust. Yet when breaking jungle, you'll see deep scratches and very bent up stuff on the front (48's and Sheridans as well). Another common misconception on Vietnam armor is rust. Just not there on an ACAV, but you may see bits of rust on a 48. Still more often than not these rust spots will be painted over here and there. They'll simply be darker spots on top of the original paint.

The trim vane on the front was often ripped off breaking jungle. Many times it was simply replaced with a piece of poorly painted plywood. You may see some rust here on the framework and brackets. I might add that it wasn't uncommon to see an ACAV without a trim vane after a couple weeks in heavy jungle.

Breaking jungle just tore up everything. A power pack lasted just a few days, and they got really good at pulling them with a chopper. It actually takes longer to do an M113 than a 48. Bamboo was cruel. I could weed my butt thru it, but they had to bust thru it. You'd see branches and leaves hanging off brackets, and oil and diesel stains on top. These then collected dust till it was power washed off. You never left much of anything on top when busting jungle, or you'd soon loose it. (another reason to walk). Fuel came out by chopper in black rubber blivits. Never sent a pump, I might add that you only saw a fuel truck or trailer near Highway One (no roads out west). The solution was really simple, and the makings of a fantastic diorama. When refueling, your wanting to get outta that position real fast. Crews would move into the tree line, and set up an ambush. Two guys would refuel the track by having the local M48 drive on top the blivit to create pressure into the hose. Then the ACAV's would drive on top the last blivit. As soon as the first track was fueled, it went strait to the tree line at the weakest point.

When weathering the ACAV, just think about using it. Floors will be at least covered with a layer of sand bags (actually filled with dirt by the way). Ramps will have everything from mud to dust all over them with bare metal showing in places (floor too). Contrary to popular belief you never sleep inside a tank! Good way to die. Sleep under them.

gary
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