Sooooo....I eBay-binged and picked up a bunch of accessories for some models (some for kits I don't own...yet). One of these goodies is a Friul ATL-12 track set. I am putting them on an M-10. Maybe.

I'll sacrifice 25 #11 blades to the Plastic Gods in the hopes of being imbued with the power to both figure them out, and to complete the build.

I know the Sherman chassis has a live track, so no sag, but this will still look awesome. Has anyone done a set of these? I'd sure appreciate any guidance. Thanks!

They look like a partly assembled set of Bronco M4 track. Lay two outer faces on the jig, locate a link piece on top, apply glue (I'd opt for epoxy) to the mating surfaces and add the inner faces over the top, ideally keeping glue off the link pieces so that they articulate. Press together (be sparing with the glue to avoid it squeezing out).

At least you don't have to add the guide horns as Bronco requires. The result of those is nice but it does take a while, although it is less tedious than MK to build.

Build them a few links short until you determine the correct number and leave the idler axle loose so that you can adjust tension with that. Sag is minimal with live track, as you know.

Negative. There's two channels that you have to slide each pin assembly into. One on each end of the track piece. I THINK you slide them in laterally, then use some Ju Ju Gypsy Tear Magic to crimp them--you know, without bending/destroying them.

Try this.

Friul Tracks

There are no pins/wire for this kit. It's a "crimp" thing.

There should be a little jig included.
It says this on the package: "Plus a special support to be used to close the links."

For the "no sag" sections of the track you could add a small amount of glue (like epoxy) before "crimping".
Maybe you will need to make a tool to press down on the crimp-part of the links. Like one jaw of wide flat nosed pliers or a very very blunt chisel.

/ Robin

It's the block in the center of the photo.

You put three or four chevron sections in the cavities on the block, then the bar sections with the "teeth" pointing up, then the flat sections, then crimp.

This is more or less what you want



except A1 and 2x A3 are cast together on the Fruili set.

Also, note in the above picture the top views shows the outside of the tracks and the bottom view shows the inside. The teeth point away from the chevron side.



If you don't know how the real tracks work it may be difficult to figure out these pieces.

KL

Thanks very much guys! I can see the light now. I'm going to start cleaning them up, then burnish them. Assembly might start this weekend.

Christian
Well my friend, if you think these tracks are a drag, don't go buying the ones for the LVT
Jacob

Ditto
That was horrible experience! Thank goodness for the 3D-printed version – I am never doing AFV’s torture set again.

Is that seven (7) pieces of plastic per LINK!?

Just image the hobby "mileage" you could get from all those small fiddly little pieces
I compare costs for kits by trying to guess the hobby time (minutes or hours) that I get from them. An expensive kit that goes together in 10 hours is better value for money than a kit which is half the cost and goes together in 3 hours.
A cheap kit that takes 20 hours to assemble is really good value for money. Those tracks would give a lot of modelling minutes per $

/ Robin

At some point we will be ordering a vehicle as an accessory to go with the 1000 piece track we bought.

I thought we already were...