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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Panel lines and shading weapons
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Northern Ireland, United Kingdom
Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 588 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 06:35 PM UTC
I've read somewhere here that a pencil can be used for highlighting panel lines and for weathering weapons sush as machine guns. Anyone any advice on the methods and what type of pencil to use.
brandydoguk
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England - North, United Kingdom
Joined: October 04, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 07:52 PM UTC
https://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/features/339
Knuckles
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Oregon, United States
Joined: March 09, 2017
KitMaker: 525 posts
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Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 08:37 PM UTC
I use colored pencils, as well as your standard yellow pencil. Copper, gold, bronze, and silver. Don't just limit yourself to weapons. Works wonders on worn, exposed metal surfaces and manual control interfaces. You can also do buttons, and insignias, and.....
Bravo1102
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: December 08, 2003
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Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 09:59 PM UTC
Standard pencil lead as in a mechanical pencil. There you can get it nice and sharp with the sandpaper.

"B" weight lead should be avoided as it is too soft unless doing large areas of bare metal. Standard yellow pencil is 2H. 3H and 4H are harder lead and give more subtle results.
Knuckles
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Oregon, United States
Joined: March 09, 2017
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Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 10:23 PM UTC
My standard technique for weapons is as follows:
I airbrush a coat of Model Master buffable gun metal. Next, I use my fingers and rub some Vallejo Steel pigment over the entire works. Next I buff it up by just rubbing it in an old T shirt. Then I hit the high edges with a standard #2 pencil, then apply a very precise pin wash of black panel liner to the recessed areas, avoiding any clean up-spots. Do not apply a top coat, as it will destroy all of the bright metal work you just did.
varanusk
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Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain / Espaņa
Joined: July 04, 2013
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Posted: Friday, May 05, 2017 - 07:15 PM UTC
Sounds good, will try it next time. Thanks!
Das_Abteilung
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United Kingdom
Joined: August 31, 2010
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 - 05:30 AM UTC
Not forgetting that metal parts of most most firearms start out black through being Parkerised, blued, phosphated or even painted - depending on age and source. Over time these can wear off, chip and scratch. Barrels on automatic weapons will most probably take on a matt grey appearance. In peacetime, weapons may be re-finished as part of periodic refurbishment.

There is a growing current trend towards having weapons finished in tactical colours
Bravo1102
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New Jersey, United States
Joined: December 08, 2003
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 - 05:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text



There is a growing current trend towards having weapons finished in tactical colours


To give an example of the color scheme of a weapon; M240 loaders machine gun on an M1 had black plastic grip, the body was dull gun metal and the barrel was worn metal with bright silver clamps. The feed cover was painted black.

The refurbished 50 caliber M2 had olive drab painted bodies. Our ancient M85 in the M60 were typically very worn gun metal looking like the perfect example of the techniques with pencil lead.
GeraldOwens
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Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 - 07:08 AM UTC
Just remember that pencil lead must be the absolutely last thing applied to the finish. If you overspray with a clear flat, the metallic sheen disappears, and it just turns dark gray.
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