_GOTOBOTTOM
Armor/AFV: Allied - WWII
Armor and ground forces of the Allied forces during World War II.
Hosted by Darren Baker
MiniArt Grant w/interior build log interest?
raivo74
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Vilnius, Lithuania
Joined: November 09, 2009
KitMaker: 132 posts
Armorama: 109 posts
Posted: Monday, April 27, 2020 - 06:40 AM UTC
Thanks for your explanation, Paul. I suppose some dust and dirt accumulation, discoloration and scratches would appear around the the hatches in a narrow strip where door rim overlaps, so possibly these marks would realistic if the weathering was done with closed hatches. But maybe it wouldn't be so prominent on a relatively new tank.
Another question - if the cammo pattern was applied at field, would they reach all the nooks and crannies with paint below the turret? I know that cammo on German vehicles was usually applied by the crews using spray gun or other means. So maybe the turret would act like a mask and the contours of uncovered base paint would remain on the hull beneath it. It probably depends on how thorough are the painters.
PRH001
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New Mexico, United States
Joined: June 16, 2014
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 603 posts
Posted: Monday, April 27, 2020 - 01:37 PM UTC
In North Africa the British had maintenance units that did the painting of the vehicles. You might find some crew applied paint schemes but most that Iíve seen were applied according to guidance received by the maintenance units. These werenít seasonal like youíd see in Europe. The pictures Iíve seen indicate that camo was applied without concern for contour.
PRH001
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New Mexico, United States
Joined: June 16, 2014
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 603 posts
Posted: Friday, May 01, 2020 - 04:34 PM UTC
A bit of an update on the Grant build. I began to install the driverís hatch and managed to send the support arm flying somewhere into another dimension.... So, I had to make one. The shaft is turned on a my lathe, and the fittings on the arm and the hatch were made from .020Ē brass stock. The pieces were drilled, shaped and soldered together.

Here is picture of the completed rod.



Here is the rod and attachment hardware fitted to the model.



Additionally, I didnít have the correct size MV lenses for the headlights, so I had to go old school and make my own. There are variations on how I do this, here is how is how I did these.

First I pulled out some .004Ē thick soft aluminum sheet. This is similar to the stuff used with the Small Shop Nutter. As you can see, itís great for making replacement rivets and bolt heads.



I pull out my old bench anvil and pick a hole size thatís pretty close to the correct diameter and place a small piece over the hole.



I firmly press down on the foil with my finger which leaves a shallow impression.





The next step it to use a cotton-tipped applicator to again press firmly into the depression left by my finger and to spin it while pressing.



This both deepens the shape and polishes it to act as a reflector.



I use a flat smooth tool handle to press the foil flat against the surface of the anvil. Here I used a scalpel handle, but the rear of tweezers or a metal ruler work just as well.



The foil is now turned rounded side up and placed on a firm cutting surface. Here I used the same Delrin spacer that I used to set the running gear in place. I then use a #15 scalpel blade to cut away the parts I donít want.







Here is the finished reflector laying next to a clear demo lens.



Since the kitís lenses are ribbed, I used them to create the front part. I attach the reflector to the back of the clear part with clear 5 minute epoxy to ensure no clouding or fogging. The lens on the left is the rear of the reflector and the one on the right is the side that will be visible.



It takes about 5 minutes to make each lens once youíve done it once or twice.

Hope this info helps someone.

Cheers!


Dioramartin
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New South Wales, Australia
Joined: May 04, 2016
KitMaker: 1,476 posts
Armorama: 1,463 posts
Posted: Friday, May 01, 2020 - 10:58 PM UTC
Beautiful work, like jewelry for tanks. Grantís looking great, not to mention the ch*pp*ng
PRH001
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New Mexico, United States
Joined: June 16, 2014
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 603 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 06, 2020 - 02:09 PM UTC
I was able to spend a little bit of time on the Grant tonight. Here is what the headlights I made look like after installation.



Cheers
raivo74
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Vilnius, Lithuania
Joined: November 09, 2009
KitMaker: 132 posts
Armorama: 109 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 06, 2020 - 04:30 PM UTC
The headlights seem very realistic, top notch.
ivanhoe6
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Wisconsin, United States
Joined: April 05, 2007
KitMaker: 2,023 posts
Armorama: 1,234 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 06, 2020 - 11:10 PM UTC
Looking REAL good Paul ! Thank you for all the tips & techniques you've generously shared with us AND taking the time to answer everybody's questions & comments.
During the era of "social distancing" I've started Takom's Lee as a sort of a warm up to the MiniArt Grant. Awaiting some putty to fill gaps (it's hell without an open hobby shop). Lesson learned, careful cleaning up of hull plates and don't be satisfied with less than perfect alignment ( small gaps). Painting will be wrong for the kit but N. African for the practice.
Thanks again for everything !
PRH001
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New Mexico, United States
Joined: June 16, 2014
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 603 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 07, 2020 - 12:29 AM UTC
Thanks to all for the kind remarks! Iím hoping to get this one completed and on the shelf pretty soon. Dry time for paints and oils have really taken their toll on the completion plans.

Itís weird, instead of looking for something totally different like I would normally do, Iíve been looking at getting a Miniart British Lee and building that too. My main hold off has been that it lacks the interior.
PRH001
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New Mexico, United States
Joined: June 16, 2014
KitMaker: 681 posts
Armorama: 603 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 09, 2020 - 01:17 PM UTC
I just finished taking some pictures of the finished product. The pics tend to hide the weathering and dust, but I wonít add any more for pictures because it looks right to me in person.

The last layers of weathering were airbrushed with Ak Interactive North Africa Dust enamel, followed by Lifecolor Portland Stone. I applied Ammo of Mig and AK Interactive pigments that included North Africa Dust, Sand, and Rubble to get color variations. Pigments were set where needed using Tamiya X-20A applied by brush and airbrush based on location.

Tail lights are painted Tamiya Clear Red and the antennae are painted Vallejo Black Grey. The fuel cans are primed with Tamiya White primer, sprayed with Tamiya Neutral Gray, sprayed with AK chipping medium, painted with AK Interactive Real Colors Light Stone for color variation and the chipped with a stiff brush.

Here are some of the photos...

























Thanks for all of the support throughout this build!

Cheers
 _GOTOTOP