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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Just received my first Shapeways order!
Kenaicop
#384
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Nevada, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 10:01 AM UTC
Now what?? I’ve heard I need to wash, lay in the sun, prime, all sorts of stuff. What actually do I need to do? Got a VRC-12 radio set with VIC-1 and KY-57’s, this little set is gorgeous
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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England - South West, United Kingdom
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 10:05 AM UTC
Wash it and use as traditional resin products
Kenaicop
#384
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 10:05 AM UTC
Roger that, thanks Darren
m4sherman
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 10:19 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Wash it and use as traditional resin products

I will add, do a good check for a wax like substance used in the process. It's not often you find any, but I've had it on some T-34 parts I had done.
Kenaicop
#384
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 10:32 AM UTC
Will do Randall, thank you too
JPTRR
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RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 01:09 PM UTC
So far I've had good luck with Shapeways items. Everything from 1/48 Japanese AA guns to 1/285 ship cannon. Lots of HO (1/87) figures.

I look forward to what you do with your pieces.
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 04:38 PM UTC
Basically what's been said above. Wash with soapy water and gently scrub with a (very) soft toothbrush. Or dip in acetone for no more than a minute. 30 seconds should work. Then wash off with water. Put the parts under a UV lamp or in sunlight to make sure that the part is fully cured and there's no uncured resin left. Strong solvent based paints can potentially react with the resin so prime with acrylics but I've had good luck with Mr. Hobby bases. I think it's because Mr. Hobby is so fast drying that it doesn't have a chance to react. Then just paint the way you normally would for your chosen primer.

Attaching the parts to each other and the kit is the same way for regular resin - Superglue or CA glue.

Also just be careful about small parts on the objects. They have a tendency to break easily if you're not careful.
CMOT
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ARMORAMA
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 09:27 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Basically what's been said above. Wash with soapy water and gently scrub with a (very) soft toothbrush. Or dip in acetone for no more than a minute. 30 seconds should work. Then wash off with water. Put the parts under a UV lamp or in sunlight to make sure that the part is fully cured and there's no uncured resin left. Strong solvent based paints can potentially react with the resin so prime with acrylics but I've had good luck with Mr. Hobby bases. I think it's because Mr. Hobby is so fast drying that it doesn't have a chance to react. Then just paint the way you normally would for your chosen primer.

Attaching the parts to each other and the kit is the same way for regular resin - Superglue or CA glue.

Also just be careful about small parts on the objects. They have a tendency to break easily if you're not careful.


I would not use Acetone as it will attack the resin. I do understand you have said this as an alternate method and have specified about time, but the size of the product would also have a bearing on this and so not one I would recommend.

Acetone is also a carcinogenic substance and so I would avoid it.
d6mst0
#453
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Joined: August 28, 2016
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Posted: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 - 11:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Basically what's been said above. Wash with soapy water and gently scrub with a (very) soft toothbrush. Or dip in acetone for no more than a minute. 30 seconds should work. Then wash off with water. Put the parts under a UV lamp or in sunlight to make sure that the part is fully cured and there's no uncured resin left. Strong solvent based paints can potentially react with the resin so prime with acrylics but I've had good luck with Mr. Hobby bases. I think it's because Mr. Hobby is so fast drying that it doesn't have a chance to react. Then just paint the way you normally would for your chosen primer.

Attaching the parts to each other and the kit is the same way for regular resin - Superglue or CA glue.

Also just be careful about small parts on the objects. They have a tendency to break easily if you're not careful.


I would not use Acetone as it will attack the resin. I do understand you have said this as an alternate method and have specified about time, but the size of the product would also have a bearing on this and so not one I would recommend.

Acetone is also a carcinogenic substance and so I would avoid it.


Shapeways clearly states not to use Acetone to clean the parts. I use a mild detergent and a soft brush.

Mark
165thspc
#521
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Posted: Thursday, September 26, 2019 - 03:31 AM UTC
Thanks for all the top quality info. So far I failed to do any of the above other than prime before painting.

So far I have apparently been lucky to have had no problems. The stuff printed by Shapeways, so far, has all been excellent.

I pinch myself that thanks to Mike G., Shapeways and a few other designers I have been able to make good use of this leading edge new modeling technology.
tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, September 26, 2019 - 04:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I would not use Acetone as it will attack the resin.

One reason to use acetone is precisely because it attacks the resin. I have seen acetone dips used not so much to clean SLA parts, but to slightly attack the surface and reduce the build lines from the layers of SLA material being laid down.

It's a skill thing and highly dependent on the exact resin, the thickness of the part and how long you leave it in, but I have seen good results where the build line, especially on really oddly shaped parts that would be tough to clean up, are greatly reduced and nearly invisible after painting.

So, for purely cleaning, I wouldn't bother, but for reducing the build lines it may be worth experimenting and evaluating if the effect is something you are looking for.

Definitely any prolonged use of acetone should be done in a well ventilated environment _and_ with the use of an organic vapour canister mask.
junglejim
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Posted: Thursday, September 26, 2019 - 05:34 PM UTC
I think Mike might know what he's talking about...
https://www.shapeways.com/designer/mikeybugs95
Just sayin'

Jim
Kenaicop
#384
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Nevada, United States
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 02:41 AM UTC
I’ve washed, will prime with Tamiya fine gray primer this weekend.
HDSC2D
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 08:29 AM UTC
Cleaning can be done with a little Simple Clean and one of those inexpensive ultrasonic cleaners from Harbor Freight. I have never tried the acetone to smooth out the build lines, I’ll have to experiment with that one. I have also carefully brushed on super-thin CA with those disposable micro brushes and have gotten good results with that. It’s always a good idea to experiment on a sprue or runner first before trying it on an actual part.
barkingdigger
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ARMORAMA
#013
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Posted: Friday, September 27, 2019 - 11:31 AM UTC
Gotta say I wouldn't use solvents like acetone on any of my prints - the porous nature of the resin means you can't be sure to remove it all to prevent unwanted runaway chemical actions that would ruin the part over time.

I expose mine to UV on a windowsill for a few hours (or days if I'm too busy to check on them!) and then wash with a little dish soap in warm water, followed by a very thorough rinse. Then I dry the parts by leaving them on paper towels for ages because I'm a very slow builder! After assembly I prime my models with Halfords grey auto primer in a rattle can from the autoparts store, and it seals the surfaces to prevent any problems with the pores absorbing paint. Sometimes I have surfaces that need a light sanding, but I'd view using acetone as a smoother to be akin to passing naked flame over styrene parts to sort out rough texture...
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