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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Tamiya Churchill Mk. VII (1/35)
kunjuro
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Philippines
Joined: October 27, 2013
KitMaker: 520 posts
Armorama: 488 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 03, 2019 - 01:30 PM UTC
Hi folks. I'd like to share my latest WIP, Tamiya's 1/35 Churchill MK. VII. Built out of the box. I used Tamiya Olive Drab II out of a rattle can for the base coat, then used oil dot filters to weather the vehicle. (specifically yellow ochre to higlight the panels). Used vallejo pigments on the lower hull. I love how tamiya allows you to remove the upper hull and the sideskirts even after the kit is finished so you can paint and weather the lower hull.

I think I'm nearly done - I'm just considering adding a bit more dust and maybe some mud splashes on the hull sides.

Constructive criticism would be much appreciated, thanks!





GeraldOwens
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Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
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Posted: Sunday, November 03, 2019 - 06:38 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi folks. I'd like to share my latest WIP, Tamiya's 1/35 Churchill MK. VII. Built out of the box. I used Tamiya Olive Drab II out of a rattle can for the base coat, then used oil dot filters to weather the vehicle. (specifically yellow ochre to higlight the panels). Used vallejo pigments on the lower hull. I love how tamiya allows you to remove the upper hull and the sideskirts even after the kit is finished so you can paint and weather the lower hull.

I think I'm nearly done - I'm just considering adding a bit more dust and maybe some mud splashes on the hull sides.

Constructive criticism would be much appreciated, thanks!







I would say the weathering is very even, forgetting that tank crew walk around on their tank, tracking mud onto it, scraping off their boots, wiping dust off some spots as they grab with sweaty hands, and occasionally spilling water, oil, or gasoline, as these fluids are topped off.
kunjuro
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Philippines
Joined: October 27, 2013
KitMaker: 520 posts
Armorama: 488 posts
Posted: Monday, November 04, 2019 - 03:12 AM UTC

Quoted Text


I would say the weathering is very even, forgetting that tank crew walk around on their tank, tracking mud onto it, scraping off their boots, wiping dust off some spots as they grab with sweaty hands, and occasionally spilling water, oil, or gasoline, as these fluids are topped off.



Thanks for the honest feedback Gerald. I find adding dust and mud to be one of the most nerve racking part of weathering. I tend to overdo the process. I'm considering first adding some splash mud on the hull sides to tie the weathering together. I'll also try adding a SMALL amount of pigments in some of the upper surfaces of the hill, being careful not to obliterate the weathering underneath.

I'll also do a bit of research to see where I can add some fuel/diesel/oil stains on the tank. I can't seem to find the fuel caps!
tankmodeler
#417
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Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 01, 2004
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Posted: Monday, November 04, 2019 - 08:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I tend to overdo the process..


If I may be so bold as to suggest something?

One way to break up a "too even" weathered finish is to include somethings in a different colour. The American Jerrycan could be a different colour od OD. The two Brit 2 Gal POL containers could be in "service Colour" brown (SCC2). Maybe some rust on the shovel blades. I also like to include some personal items in a much different colour, like a green bottle of wine or a red cap or scarf or a blue refueling funnel. That sort of thing.


Quoted Text

I'll also do a bit of research to see where I can add some fuel/diesel/oil stains on the tank. I can't seem to find the fuel caps!



Staining around the engine access doors is pretty much always a good thing on tanks as they were serviced very often and by people not terribly concerned about the vehicle's looks. Similarly, a bit of carbon staining from the exhausts around where the shovel handles are would help there as well.

Just a couple of suggestions.

Paul
d6mst0
#453
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Texas, United States
Joined: August 28, 2016
KitMaker: 1,925 posts
Armorama: 601 posts
Posted: Monday, November 04, 2019 - 08:30 AM UTC
The bottom of the tracks that touch the ground should be shiny where the metal has worn. No matter how dirty the tracks that part of the tracks were always shiny.

Really nice build and weathering work.

Mark
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