Russ, do you have a brand or skew number?
Rodrigo,
What oil paint are you using? You have the process of thinning correct, but you really can’t apply enamel paints quite like you can oil paints for weathering purposes (filters, washes, etc.). Enamel thinners used as washes can sometimes attack the acrylic base coats if applied to heavily. This is especially true when using Tamiya “acrylics” as a base coat, since Tamiya acrylics are actually “acrylic lacquers”, and will sometimes react to enamel thinners. True oils usually come in a tube, and are sold as “oils” with linseed oil as the carrier. Oil paints can be used over both acrylics and enamel base coats, when mixed with white spirits. I personally prefer to use “Turpenoid light” as a thinner for my oil washes, although this does occasionally dry with a “frosty” appearance, which will go away under a light flat coat, or a subsequent application of Turpenoid light. Watch the videos for a better explanation of how to use oils for weathering base coats.
VR, Russ
Testors acrylics also come in square bottles like their oils. But since you said enamel I would use Testors thinner to thin it. I've found some thinners and Turpenoids are just too hot. I use the thinner made by the paint manufacturer to take one random variable out of the paint equation. Paint manufacturers are making their products proprietary so mixing brands is a cause for issues.
Did you let your paints cure? I'll go 3 days to a week before weathering. Not only do they need to dry they need to cure. Acrylic house paints can take up to 30 days to fully cure. Automotive paints can take longer. When they got done painting my truck they told me not to wash it for at least 6 weeks to allow everything to cure.
Also did you put down a clearcoat to protect your paint from your weathering materials? A thin layer of dullcote or glosscote or a similar clear coat will keep your paint safe from solvents in weathering products.
Quoted TextRuss, do you have a brand or skew number?
Greg, the brand is Weber, “Turpenoid light” the bar code number is 18911801636. It can be found with the rest of the thinners in the oil paint aisle. It’s a synthetic “substitute” for turpentine, and says “turpentine substitute“ right on the label in small print. A 16oz. Bottle will cost about $15, so use your 40% off coupon if you get it from HL. Make sure it says “mild” in the labeling. It will leave a frosty residue if used heavily, but as I mention above, that disappears under any overcoat. I used it extensively on my build of Rodens Holt Tractor and 8” BL gun below:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net/review/14507
VR, Russ
I guess that the problem is caused by the clear coat (Tamiya TS80) reacting with the WhiteSpirit. Tamiya spray cans don't contain the acrylic stuff.
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