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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Cleaning Your Airbrush
md72
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Posted: Monday, March 22, 2010 - 10:28 AM UTC
D'oh

Quoted Text

Solvents are not recommended for soaking because they may attack the sealing rings



Left the glass part of an eyedropper sitting in laquer thinner while I airbrushed some parts. Returned to find that the thinner was eating away at the PLASTIC tray I was soaking the eyedropper in.
j76lr
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Posted: Monday, March 22, 2010 - 10:13 AM UTC
I recently bought a ultra sonic cleaner from e bay,I paid $35 dollars for it.It does a ecellent job.
gaborka
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Borsod-Abauj-Zemblen, Hungary
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Posted: Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 08:59 AM UTC
Solvents are not recommended for soaking because they may attack the sealing rings and subsequently leave residues that are hard to remove. The metal bodies of the airbrushes aren't supposed to be affected by solvents.

doppelganger
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Posted: Saturday, March 20, 2010 - 07:34 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi
I have a few questions after reading the thread. First of all though, I have a Badger 200GF and have been using the Badger airbrush cleaner and water to clean it. I also mainly use acrylics. I want to give it a good clean as I think it maybe a bit clogged even though i clean it after each colour I use.
I'm sure I read soaking it overnight in meths or white spirits might work - any comments?
All the cleaning products mentioned are obviously American brands I've never heard of - what are the equivilent UK brands? I'm not into cleaning products but at least if I know the UK brands I can look out for them.
What kinda shops sell distilled water? Might sound daft but what about mineral water?

thanks
Mike

Paasche reccomends not soaking the airbrush in solvents ect,I am guessing the other brands are the same? I am just not that finicky about using our pristine Idaho water granted I do periodically completely disassemble and clean up with solvents I sure am not pro but this works for me
wedgetail53
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Posted: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 05:23 PM UTC
Guys

A very interesting thread, but about one thing I am very curious. I use Tamiya acrylics exclusively for my airbrushing, and previously used either Tamiya acrylic thinner, methylated spirits or isopropyl alchohol to clean the beast.

Lately, however, I have been using Tamiya's own airbrush cleaner, and I was surprised not to see it mentioned in this thread. It comes in the same size bottle as their enamel and acrylic thinners (ie 250ml) and is the same rectangular shape, only it has a bright pink lid. It stinks when you're using it, but it seems to do the job. I usually just blow through a couple of cups full then backwash.

Anybody else had any experience with it ?

Cheers

Rob

md72
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Posted: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 09:21 AM UTC
For distilled water, try your pharmacy or grocer. I wouldn't recomment mineral water as it will contain various compounds that will clog your brush worse than the paint. You might also consider isopropal alcohol (sorry about the spelling). Finally, for really tough globs, consider, very carefully, using laquer thinner. It'll probably get out the clots but it may melt plastic items you don't want to melt. Experience talking there.
MikeMx
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England - North East, United Kingdom
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Posted: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 - 08:45 AM UTC
Hi
I have a few questions after reading the thread. First of all though, I have a Badger 200GF and have been using the Badger airbrush cleaner and water to clean it. I also mainly use acrylics. I want to give it a good clean as I think it maybe a bit clogged even though i clean it after each colour I use.
I'm sure I read soaking it overnight in meths or white spirits might work - any comments?
All the cleaning products mentioned are obviously American brands I've never heard of - what are the equivilent UK brands? I'm not into cleaning products but at least if I know the UK brands I can look out for them.
What kinda shops sell distilled water? Might sound daft but what about mineral water?

thanks
Mike
doppelganger
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Posted: Sunday, March 14, 2010 - 04:57 PM UTC
I run warm water from a slowly flowing faucet through the paint intake on my Paasche mil then backflush with faucet water still flowing, pull out the needle wipe the needle down and pass it through completely with the tip removed wiping needle each time, maybe weird? but seems to be working fine.I tear it down every few month to inspect and remove any gunk from air valve ect.I run the compressor at 30 psi for all this...maybe overkill? tamiya acryl or MM acryl is the usual paint.
Finch
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 10:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Matt

Can I use lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol in the tank instead of water to strip off enamel paints?


No. Ultrasonic cleaners are not designed to be used with solvents.



Matt is absolutely right, and please don't ask me how I know
j76lr
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2010 - 09:42 AM UTC
Thanks alot Matt .Alot of great tips
gaborka
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Borsod-Abauj-Zemblen, Hungary
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Posted: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 01:36 AM UTC
Ah I see. I am not a big chemist, sorry.

md72
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Posted: Monday, March 01, 2010 - 09:55 AM UTC
Thanks Matt. Sorta tired of spending 5 minutes on maintence for every minute of airbrushing, but it looks like the best way. Learned a bunch and laughed a bit on this thread!
SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, March 01, 2010 - 06:48 AM UTC

Quoted Text

WD-40 is not silicone based, but petroleum based. Most lubes you use for ABs are also petroleum or mineral spirit based if I am right.





Sorry Gabor, but according to the MSDS of WD-40, it is 50% silicone (which is an Aliphatic Hydrocarbon petroleum derivative). Airbrush lubes are water based, like ,um, the "personal lubes" at the drug store. (But don't use those in your airbrush!)
gaborka
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Borsod-Abauj-Zemblen, Hungary
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Posted: Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 09:55 PM UTC
WD-40 is not silicone based, but petroleum based. Most lubes you use for ABs are also petroleum or mineral spirit based if I am right.



Gorizont
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Posted: Monday, January 25, 2010 - 12:11 AM UTC
i also disassemble my Badger-100GXF after use and clean the parts.
After that I spray cleaner through it.
I use Revell cleaner for big parts + spraying and a standard "Nail-color-remover" (translated)
only for the needle.

For color-changes I only spray cleaner through it.

greetings...
Soeren
ant88
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Rhode Island, United States
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Posted: Sunday, January 24, 2010 - 11:48 PM UTC
Thanks Guys! I wil probably continue to break it down but only at the end of the building day. Also, the $30 Walmart Utrasonic cleaner works great. Cheers!
SSGToms
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Posted: Saturday, January 23, 2010 - 05:42 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Matt

Can I use lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol in the tank instead of water to strip off enamel paints?


No. Ultrasonic cleaners are not designed to be used with solvents.
plastickjunkie
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Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 12:42 PM UTC
Matt

Can I use lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol in the tank instead of water to strip off enamel paints?
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 05:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great thread! Well, with the link Matt provided I've finally took the plunge and purchased this ultrasonic cleaner. I've been meaning to do this since I've heard discussions on how good they are to clean the brushes but never acted on it so I am now looking forward to trying it.

So, with this, I have a question for Matt. What parts, specifically, do you disassemble from your brushes before you place them in the UC. I mean, do you leave the needle, trigger, etc? Or do you pretty much take everything apart before you dunk the parts in the UC?

Thanks much!

Rob


Hi Rob,
Generally, I just take everything apart and put it all in except for the air valve.
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 05:23 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I'm curieus...WD40; wont it influence the paint?

gr.

(S)martin


I recommend that you NEVER use WD-40 or any other silicone lubricant in your airbrush (so do Iwata and Grex). It will eat the seals, put fisheyes and blooms in the paint, and you will never, never get it all out of the airbrush.
Always use dedicated airbrush lube.
Also, always use distilled water in and on your airbrush. Tap water contains lime, rust, minerals, and chemicals that will form deposits inside and eventually plug it up for good.
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 05:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

So you can just put the disassembled body in the Ultrasonic cleaner? It wont affect the seals and such inside the body will it? I have an Iwata SBS if that matters.

Walter


Yep, you just put it in there. The only thing it will do to the seals is lift the gunk off them.
GALILEO1
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Posted: Friday, January 22, 2010 - 02:04 AM UTC
Great thread! Well, with the link Matt provided I've finally took the plunge and purchased this ultrasonic cleaner. I've been meaning to do this since I've heard discussions on how good they are to clean the brushes but never acted on it so I am now looking forward to trying it.

So, with this, I have a question for Matt. What parts, specifically, do you disassemble from your brushes before you place them in the UC. I mean, do you leave the needle, trigger, etc? Or do you pretty much take everything apart before you dunk the parts in the UC?

Thanks much!

Rob
Smartin
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Zuid-Holland, Netherlands
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 09:57 PM UTC
I'm curieus...WD40; wont it influence the paint?

gr.

(S)martin
ted_hayward
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Taipei, Taiwan / 台灣
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 05:08 PM UTC
I use WD40, followed by plain water. I use my brush at least 20-40 hours/week, and only strip it down occasionally. Works for any brand of brush, any type of paint (I use acrylics, lacquers, and enamels in the same brush)!
Ragnar2004
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Posted: Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 04:19 PM UTC
So you can just put the disassembled body in the Ultrasonic cleaner? It wont affect the seals and such inside the body will it? I have an Iwata SBS if that matters.

Walter