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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Dried up Model Master enamel
MrchntMarine
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: February 11, 2020
KitMaker: 62 posts
Armorama: 31 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2020 - 08:39 AM UTC
So I don't use enamels that much and here lately I went to my black and it had dried up. It was still rubbery, moderately stiff though. Question: can it be revived using the brand complimentary thinner or will its properties be too far gone? Just try? I wanted to use some to do a pin wash but even after trying to bring it back, so far, it just not has seemed to mix well....
steel_tiger1
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Iowa, United States
Joined: May 14, 2008
KitMaker: 34 posts
Armorama: 33 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2020 - 08:42 AM UTC
To far gone. Toss it.
DocEvan
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California, United States
Joined: August 09, 2014
KitMaker: 180 posts
Armorama: 180 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2020 - 09:42 AM UTC
Don't waste your time. Buy new paint.


Quoted Text

So I don't use enamels that much and here lately I went to my black and it had dried up. It was still rubbery, moderately stiff though. Question: can it be revived using the brand complimentary thinner or will its properties be too far gone? Just try? I wanted to use some to do a pin wash but even after trying to bring it back, so far, it just not has seemed to mix well....

Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 19, 2020 - 05:58 PM UTC
I’ve got to agree with the comments above, once MM paint has “achieved” the consistency of “rubber”, it’s too far gone to revive. This is especially true of Testors paint. What’s happened is the “carrier” has partially separated from the pigment, which has solidified. All you’re going to do by adding proprietary thinner is to break the solidified pigment into smaller chunks, which are sure to clog an airbrush or gum up your paintbrush. However, I have had some success by removing some of the “rubberized” paint from the jar, adding it to a metal cup, and adding lacquer thinner, then straining the paint through a fine metal mesh screen. But the only thing I use this mixture for is to stain wood. I’ve had much better success reviving Tamiya and Mr. Color paints with their proprietary thinners though, and when figure painting, I typically use a nylon pallet and revive the dried paint in the pallet (sometimes I’ll save the pallet for later use) by adding a little thinner.
VR, Russ
MrchntMarine
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: February 11, 2020
KitMaker: 62 posts
Armorama: 31 posts
Posted: Monday, April 20, 2020 - 09:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I’ve got to agree with the comments above, once MM paint has “achieved” the consistency of “rubber”, it’s too far gone to revive. This is especially true of Testors paint. What’s happened is the “carrier” has partially separated from the pigment, which has solidified. All you’re going to do by adding proprietary thinner is to break the solidified pigment into smaller chunks, which are sure to clog an airbrush or gum up your paintbrush. However, I have had some success by removing some of the “rubberized” paint from the jar, adding it to a metal cup, and adding lacquer thinner, then straining the paint through a fine metal mesh screen. But the only thing I use this mixture for is to stain wood. I’ve had much better success reviving Tamiya and Mr. Color paints with their proprietary thinners though, and when figure painting, I typically use a nylon pallet and revive the dried paint in the pallet (sometimes I’ll save the pallet for later use) by adding a little thinner.
VR, Russ


Got it. Tks. Im lucky I didnt need the black too bad... My shop is closed until may and the last little bottle I had to mail order the other week cost more in shipping than what the paint cost. I was gonna use some to detail with. I tried to mix some up with thinner but its still a gooky mess - now in the trash. Appreciate the help.
barnslayer
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New York, United States
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 102 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Monday, April 20, 2020 - 09:50 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

I’ve got to agree with the comments above, once MM paint has “achieved” the consistency of “rubber”, it’s too far gone to revive. This is especially true of Testors paint. What’s happened is the “carrier” has partially separated from the pigment, which has solidified. All you’re going to do by adding proprietary thinner is to break the solidified pigment into smaller chunks, which are sure to clog an airbrush or gum up your paintbrush. However, I have had some success by removing some of the “rubberized” paint from the jar, adding it to a metal cup, and adding lacquer thinner, then straining the paint through a fine metal mesh screen. But the only thing I use this mixture for is to stain wood. I’ve had much better success reviving Tamiya and Mr. Color paints with their proprietary thinners though, and when figure painting, I typically use a nylon pallet and revive the dried paint in the pallet (sometimes I’ll save the pallet for later use) by adding a little thinner.
VR, Russ


Got it. Tks. Im lucky I didnt need the black too bad... My shop is closed until may and the last little bottle I had to mail order the other week cost more in shipping than what the paint cost. I was gonna use some to detail with. I tried to mix some up with thinner but its still a gooky mess - now in the trash. Appreciate the help.



Did you try plunging a metal rod into the center of the rubbery mass? You might find some usable paint inside.