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Modeling in General: Advice on...
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Paint vs masking tape
Zildjian1819
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United States
Joined: March 06, 2020
KitMaker: 43 posts
Armorama: 42 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 06:10 AM UTC
In your opinion,which brand of paint best resist’s masking tape? Thank’s guy’s.
Trisaw
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California, United States
Joined: December 24, 2002
KitMaker: 4,105 posts
Armorama: 2,492 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 06:19 AM UTC
Frogtape, as tested by Consumer Reports, is the best paint masking tape. Trust me on this one.

The others leave a thin residue when you peel the tape away, even the blue paint masking tape.
russamotto
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Utah, United States
Joined: December 14, 2007
KitMaker: 3,389 posts
Armorama: 2,054 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 07:01 AM UTC
I was using Frog tape yellow, which was great. Can't seem to find it now. The others leave an almost glitter like residue on the kits that will ruin a paint job. As for paint, I use Tamiya and haven't had a problem with it peeling. Model Master acrylic has come up so I always save it for last. Vallejo model air has generally been good but a couple of times I have had paint lift off. I use Thera-putty instead of tape when I use Vallejo. I don't have experience with other paint brands.
Scarred
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 19, 2020 - 07:02 AM UTC
Resist? As in doesn't lift off when you remove the tape? Make sure your base coat is completely dried and if you can wait that long, fully cured which can take a few days. I haven't had any problems with Tamiya tape or the real Scotch painters tape, not the generic stuff I don't like it it's too sticky. If I think the tape is going to stick too much I'll stick it to a piece of clean plate glass a couple of times to reduce tackyness. Also paint and shoot away from the tape edge, reduces bleeding under the edge and keeps from the paint from building up a paint edge that can 'glue' the tape down so when you remove the tape it can lift the paint too. Also this is where the "to primer or not to primer" argument starts. I now prime every time because these newer acrylics don't, I hate to say etch but that's the best description, into the plastic like solvent based paints do. The just lay on top relying on their resins to adhere where enamel and lacquers can bite into the plastic. In the old days I didn't always prime unless the color of the plastic was such that it might change the color of the paint job.
timmyp
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Virginia, United States
Joined: May 18, 2008
KitMaker: 496 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 21, 2020 - 02:53 AM UTC
To pick-up on Scarred's "to prime or not to prime" thought: in my current build, I've been using Tamiya acrylics (mostly), and they seem to be working well. However, before I started the build and was doing as much pre-painting as possible, I figured I'd try and get it done right, by applying primer to everything, then painting it. Well, it was Tamiya primer I was using, and that stuff was terrible. It went on ok, but when it dried, it left an uneven coating, felt like everything was covered in chalk, and even transferred to my hands when handling the primed parts. I wound up scrubbing it all off, and just skipped priming everything. What a waste of time!

Tim
Scarred
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 21, 2020 - 07:01 AM UTC
After trying about 7 or 8 different primers in the past couple of years I found Ammo of mig One Shot primer to be the easiest, most forgiving primer. Supposedly it's rebadged Badger Stynylrez primer which a lot of people like. It lays down well and will self level in seconds. Vallejo,AK, Ammo of Mig and Tamiya adhere to it really well.

Here's a couple of videos that prompted me to try it:

Part 1
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SDm3BhnTQ5A

Part 2
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSDtFbWRB-o