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For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
What is the best acrylic primmer for armor
brekinapez
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Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 02:07 PM UTC
Thanks.
Grauwolf
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Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 12:33 PM UTC
https://www.titanshobby.com/default.asp?cmd=getProd&cmdID=31&idC=3&idA=1&l=2

Cheers,
brekinapez
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Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 10:03 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I don't think so. One Shot is, after all, Badger Stynlrez, which is made in USA. This stuff is labeled "Made In Italy".



I don't know why, Matthew, but lately the images you have been posting show as gray circles with a white bar horizontally in the middle on my PC. It's happening in the "So I was going through my stash..." thread too.

Can you tell me the brand name of this Italian product or a link?

Thanks!
Scarred
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Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 08:50 AM UTC
Good point. They do have a lot of colors and I'm wondering if the 'bare metal' is flat or glossy. I got One Shot in black and white so I have three colors to shoot but I'd like to get stynylrez red-brown to simulate red lead primer.
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 07:54 AM UTC
I don't think so. One Shot is, after all, Badger Stynlrez, which is made in USA. This stuff is labeled "Made In Italy".
Scarred
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Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 07:43 AM UTC
Do you suppose it's a rattlecan version of One Shot?
SSGToms
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Posted: Tuesday, September 15, 2020 - 07:34 AM UTC
Brand new and soon to be available - These are acrylic!

RobinNilsson
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 10:21 AM UTC
Yep!
Red and yellow are certainly extremely rare in most armour collections.
I will consider priming for these though:



This one has nice gray plastic so primer might not be needed.
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 10:00 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Depends on the wanted colour. Painting yellow or red usually requires a uniform tone of the underlying surface due to the usually bad coverage properties of red and yellow. Greens, browns, blues and black cover well enough on their own.



True, however the amount of times that we tank modelers need to finish in yellow, red, or blue does not warrant covering every surface, on every model we make. And, as I said, you can get the desired result by using a neutral shade of the same type as your finish coat.

KL
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 09:37 AM UTC

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If it's use is thought wise by the auto refinishing industry then we should probably consider it wise for our models as well.



They are painting metal and non-styrene plastics with the intention that they will survive outdoor exposure, and frequently trying to achieve deep, high gloss finishes. They use powder coating, lacquers, and thermal curing. They are not a good example for painting plastic tank models.

KL



Depends on the wanted colour. Painting yellow or red usually requires a uniform tone of the underlying surface due to the usually bad coverage properties of red and yellow. Greens, browns, blues and black cover well enough on their own.
KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 08:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text

If it's use is thought wise by the auto refinishing industry then we should probably consider it wise for our models as well.



They are painting metal and non-styrene plastics with the intention that they will survive outdoor exposure, and frequently trying to achieve deep, high gloss finishes. They use powder coating, lacquers, and thermal curing. They are not a good example for painting plastic tank models.

KL
165thspc
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 05:55 AM UTC

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I use Tamiya spray lacquer primer on resin, metal, & sometimes plastic. It now come in pink, too.
Mike



I'll see your Tamiya Pink Primer and raise you 14. Stylinrez is available in 18 colors.



And Vellejo comes in 22 colors.



Not saying Vellejo is not top quality but the Tamiya was the best quality I had found up to that point and I am sticking with what I know works. I don't fix it if it ain't broke.


Also am not trying to turn this into an argument so I will stop here.
VintageRPM
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 04:37 AM UTC

Quoted Text


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I use Tamiya spray lacquer primer on resin, metal, & sometimes plastic. It now come in pink, too.
Mike



I'll see your Tamiya Pink Primer and raise you 14. Stylinrez is available in 18 colors.



And Vellejo comes in 22 colors.
j76lr
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 03:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

If your armor is a plastic kit, use of a primer is usually not necessary IMHO. A primer is to prepare a surface for painting - to smooth a surface, or to make adhesion pf paint better. If the surface is bare smooth plastic it's already prepped for paint - as long as the paint is designed for plastic models. Of course, resin, brass, and PE parts require priming for good paint adhesion. IMO primer, on plastic, is just another unnecessary (thick) layer of paint that could fill or obscure fine surface detail.



! agree
165thspc
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Posted: Sunday, September 13, 2020 - 02:05 AM UTC
I do a fair amount of kit-bashing and scratch building so that means my models are usually a mix of Tan and Olive Drab colored plastic plus a lot of Evergreen white plastic as well.

Unifying the underlying base color for consistent finished paint color rendition was and should still be one of the primary reasons for using a good grade of primer under the finished paint. If it's use is thought wise by the auto refinishing industry then we should probably consider it wise for our models as well.

To speak again of the Tamiya product - it is NOT a thick coating. I have never felt that this product has ever worked to hide desired detail on any of my models. This product goes on smoothly with little tendency to run or sag. It is self leveling and very forgiving if you do happen to lay it on a little too thick. Finally the light "tooth" the primer gives to the surface makes for good adhesion for the final paint coat.

Additionally it CAN be laid on more thickly when needed and then sanded to smooth out small surface irregularities and hide unwanted seams.

The modeler would be wise to keep this trick in their modeling tool box.


p.s. Additionally: use of primer goes a long way towards reducing the usual rough surface that comes with the use of modern 3D printed parts.
Scarred
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 07:16 PM UTC



I've used Mr. Surfacer a few times to correct the textures that are cast to replicate plate steel and cast turrets or hulls. It works great for that, sometimes those textures are overblown and exaggerated, poorly replicated, completely missing or all three.

Scalehobbyist.com has better prices on both those items.

Mr. Surfacer 1000 part number B-519

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/mr-surfacer-1000-spray-170ml/GSI00000519/product.php?pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&kw=primer&man=GSI


Tamiya Gray Fine Surface Primer Large, Part Number 87064

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/surface-primer-fine-light-grey/TAM00087064/product.php?pg=1&ppp=48&sb=stocknumber&so=a&kw=primer&man=TAM

KurtLaughlin
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 12:53 PM UTC
I do not use primer. Excepting the Stynlrez product. most model primers are either surfacers or thick gray paint. Surfacers are used to fill scratches and improve the surface, usually by sanding away most of the product. Unless the product is formulated to etch and bond with the surface it doesn't do much for improving adhesion. For plastics, that means a solvent. If your candidate product doesn't have solvent or the appropriate inorganic compounds for bonding to metal, it's not much of a primer.

Instead of a "primer", try gently washing and rinsing your model with a liquid detergent solution and letting it thoroughly dry before painting. The problem isn't usually "mold release" from producing the kit but skin oils, dust, and grime accumulated during building. A proper wash gets you down to a clean base.

To even out the background color and to find flaws you can use any of a number of colors of regular paint. I suggest you use something from the same product line as your finish coat. Often you can get all you need from putting on a base coat of your intended finish paint. There's no need to use a heavy, thick "primer".

KL
165thspc
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 10:35 AM UTC
Tamiya light gray primer #TS-80

Period - no discussion necessary.
Also now available in red lead color which I find just as good.

However DO NOT use the white primer - have had adhesion problems there!
mudlark
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 09:54 AM UTC
I don't know which is the best primer to use but I use Tamiya acrylics and have found that some colours adhere better to the plastic than others.
I use a primer after washing the model down at the end of the build. This helps the final paint to stick but more importantly helps to show up any problem areas.
Headhunter506
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 09:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I use Tamiya spray lacquer primer on resin, metal, & sometimes plastic. It now come in pink, too.
Mike



I'll see your Tamiya Pink Primer and raise you 14. Stylinrez is available in 18 colors.

Vicious
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 08:46 AM UTC
Badger Stynylrez alias Mig One Shot Primer alias Ultimate Pimer from Ultimate Modeling Product,no thinning,perfect self leveling also by brush,you can sand no problem,i dont use primer only sometime if i spray Enamel or paints thinned with lacquer,but if i brush always prime before
VintageRPM
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 07:25 AM UTC
I use Tamiya spray lacquer primer on resin, metal, & sometimes plastic. It now come in pink, too. Remeber there are 2 grades of Tamiys rattle can primer, regular and "Fine".

As for acrylic primer, I've had fantastic results with Vellejo's primers on styrene. They come in various colors and I've used these as the base coat - skips a paint step.

Mike
Scarred
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 06:53 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Mostly Stynylrez here also, but for some projects I have used spray can primers for large projects or even no primer at all depending on the kit and the underlying materials.

I bought a 4oz sampler of black/gray/white Stynylrez a while back and have mainly used the black, but I swear I seem to put a lot on and yet this little bottle has lasted a lot of kits (all 1/35-1/32). Have used the gray a bit but not so much the white. I am saving that for some car kits I bought to help keep the base coat stay bright. I'm trying to paint a '57 Bel Air, not a Luftwaffe fighter.



Yeah it seems like you do use a lot but you're not. Probably because you don't thin it and a little goes a long way.

In my first post I meant to say Ammo of Mig's One Shot is Stynylrez re-bottled.
brekinapez
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 06:15 AM UTC
Mostly Stynylrez here also, but for some projects I have used spray can primers for large projects or even no primer at all depending on the kit and the underlying materials.

I bought a 4oz sampler of black/gray/white Stynylrez a while back and have mainly used the black, but I swear I seem to put a lot on and yet this little bottle has lasted a lot of kits (all 1/35-1/32). Have used the gray a bit but not so much the white. I am saving that for some car kits I bought to help keep the base coat stay bright. I'm trying to paint a '57 Bel Air, not a Luftwaffe fighter.
Scarred
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Posted: Saturday, September 12, 2020 - 05:46 AM UTC
Here is a pretty good review of Stynylrez it's a two parter...

Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDm3BhnTQ5A&feature=youtu.be

Part 2
https://youtu.be/ZSDtFbWRB-o

I've used Vallejo and AK but I like the Stynylrez a lot more.

I also like Mr. Surfacer, but that's not an acrylic.